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Re: clutch wont grab, new conversion
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OK, I cut off ± 3/4" from the rod.
I have ± 1/8" free play now.

when the clutch pedal is up, there is now a ticka ticka ticka sound.
this goes away with a slight pressure on the pedal.

Posted on: 2009/6/6 23:38
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Keith (Mac-Datty)
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Re: clutch wont grab, new conversion
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Im not sure where the fly wheel came from, it might have even been from a f10 a14.
the plate I used between the engine and the tranny looked to be a shy 1/8" and was the complete one, unlike the automatic plate which was thin and only a have plate.

Im still unclear if i should be lengthening the master rod or loosening it, if it is lengthening it, would shims help?

Posted on: 2009/6/5 3:19
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Re: clutch wont grab, new conversion
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oh SH*T,

entirely possible, I got a hold of a 4 and a 5 speed at once. bought a bearing but the sleeve could be from the 4 speed.

Posted on: 2009/6/4 6:49
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Re: clutch wont grab, new conversion
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oh, and the pedal stopper is seated completely

Posted on: 2009/6/4 6:25
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Re: clutch wont grab, new conversion
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Hmm, in order to "shorten" the rod any more I would have to cut the rod end off.
Like I said, the end of the rod is touching the pedal arm.

Posted on: 2009/6/4 5:55
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Keith (Mac-Datty)
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Re: clutch wont grab, new conversion
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yep, newly machined and lightened.

Posted on: 2009/6/4 4:01
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clutch wont grab, new conversion
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So I put the 63a dogleg in my 78 b210 and waved bye-bye to the 3 speed auto finally!
It was ok for a week or so, then the clutch started to slip.
I adjusted the rod at the pedal until the rod bottoms on the pedal arm and it was ok for a couple more weeks.
Now it is slipping again...

What can I do to solve this problem?

The clutch kit was brand new when I put it in.
There doesn't seem to be any free play at the clevis pin as I had to push the rod toward the master to get the clevis pin in.
We had to fabricate the slave pin as the new slave came with none.

Ideas??

Posted on: 2009/6/4 3:47
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Re: OOPS!
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I swapped out the battery to chassis wire with a 1 gauge and the positive from the battery to the starter also.
The "E" terminal on the alternator was stripped so I switched it to another bolt on the back of the alternator.

Still flickering.

The stock alternator in the car (78 b210) seems to be internally regulated, unlike my 76.
The terminals are labeled B and E and then the T shaped connector.

Of to put on the meter...

Posted on: 2009/5/3 22:12
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Keith (Mac-Datty)
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OOPS!
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So I tell myself every time i do something stupid like this, "next time I will disconnect the battery".

I was replacing the alternator and bridged the terminals with my wrench.
Plume of smoke rises and I swear.
I replaced the fusible link although I am not sure the gauge is correct.
I now have a fluctuation of power when the car runs.
The headlights and dash lights flicker and the brake light comes on randomly.

Any idea where to start?

Keith

Posted on: 2009/5/3 21:14
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Keith (Mac-Datty)
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Re: WTB B210 trunk seals, where?
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Nope, its for my green car.
Not my blue coupe or red coupe but my green sedan.

I found some stripping at a marine supply store for 20 bucks, I think I'll give it a shot first.

Posted on: 2009/2/11 2:40
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