To delete a ballast resistor though you just wire the two wires (that were on it) together correct?

So far so good,

Quote:

So I hooked up a pertronix ignitor,

Originally I removed the points and removed the condenser.

Put in the pertronix and got no spark.

I found that the little pigtail that went to the rear of the distributor was connected where it normally went.

When I removed this pigtail I got spark. It was orange.

So I went and bought a non points coil. And bypassed the ballast resistor. Bought a new cap and rotor and plug wires.

Still an orange spark.


I am thinking I have one of the wires at the wrong spot.

So here are my questions

The wire that went to the condenser does that stay or go?

And to properly bypass the ballast resistor do I just hook the wires together (That's what I did)

And the pertronix just black to negative on coil and red to positive on coil.

Damn it, I work in a Nuclear Reactor all day and this crap just must be too simple

Please if you have a photo or 2 of your 12V coil wiring please pass it on

Check the Craigslist Ads from Texas there was one for sale that came with a tow dolly for about $800.00


in fact I found it here



---->CLICKY<----

I have a electric choke Hitachi my manual does not say a method for a baseline setting. How many turns out from bottom is the main mixture screw?

Clicky ------>RIGHT HERE<-----



Quote:

Updated with the master site www.car-part.com

Might be worth a try to call these guys

Check www.car-part.com under carrier and diff of course. Not to be confused with carparts.com two totally different ends of the spectrum here.

I found the difference

The correct gasket here

Datsun 1200 Coupe in kit K624

And the 510 kit here

K662 510 kit

Ok I understand, the only reason I ask is. I emailed them asking for the specific kit and they told me it is $329.99..... About $40 more then this kit. I didnt understand why there would be a price difference if they were interchangeable.

Will THIS ONE <--click here Work?