Hey Mikali I bought new front and rear bumpers direct from nissan at rockdale, NSW. They are the 3 piece type, I think from memory it worked out to be $85 each bar, complete.
In addition they came from an redundant nissan parts warehouse in melbourne.
I know for sure that the small 180b booster fits. The reason why I say small is, from memory there are two different sizes. You might be able to run a slightly larger diameter booster, but you would be limited by the closeness of the wheel well/inner guard, what ever you call it. I run a 7/8 Master cylinder on a 180B booster and it works just great.
I hope you mean strut not strut tower. basically, all 1200's are identical from the windscreen forward. the early and / or baseline 1200's came out with drum front brakes, the later with disk. The easiest brake swap is to use struts out of a 120y. But if you are interested in bigger stopping power I would opt for the struts, lower control arms, ball joints and castor rods out of a stanza (the model which has the larger stub axles and has "armstrong" stamped on the strut). The rotors & calipers can be sourced from a stanza, 200B maybe a few others, can't remember. If you want bigger brakes again, you could opt for the "varada" brake conversion or the one I used "r32 Skyline".
Hey 1200rallycar, I put the bluebird setup on my twelve. From memory the only part that is very tight when fitting 13 inch wheels, was the lever that activates the handbrake. I suggest that, if you are using your car for rallying that you implement a hydrolic handbrake and ditch the mechanical one.
Personally i have keeped the mechanical handbrake because i am running 15 inch wheels
You must put the long bolt in the correct hole as this is the oil supply gallery for the rockers. no lubrication = disaster. The long bolt from memory has a letter "T" stamped on it or "13". In addition I think the side (right-left) in which the bolt screwed into could be different, depending which evolution of the A-series engine you have. It is easy to pick, as the head bolt hole threads in the block start more or less at deck height, except for the hole that the long bolt belongs, as the threads start approx 7-10mm below deck height.
As for the mechanic in tassie, sounds like he is a ruthless bastard, only interested in the dollar.
if it is any help i have a magazine article on a factory preped coupe that was run at bathurst. I will dig it out this weekend and scan it. It was (from memory) baby poo brown with two black strips on the bonnet with "datsun logo" on it. Also i think it was based on the A12 donk.
You are definately on the money 1200rally. You want to achieve a shorter gear change by moving the fulcrum point on the gear lever.
In my opinion there is no advantage gained by shortening the length of the stick, as the end result is that the driver will have to reach further from the steering wheel to change gears. Shortening the stick could considered a quick fix. Ideally you would want the the gear stick close to the steering wheel ( to reduce time taken to move your hand) in congunction with a short "throw" between gears (achieved but moving the fulcrum point of the gear stick.
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