BigV is right! Some of us do run these setups...even us lowely anti-quated double wishbone front ended 1000 drivers.

Dattoman,
I can't seem to find anything that will fit. Can you please send me one of your special pushrods at your earliest convenience. Did you get my PM ??
Daniel.

Hmmm... ok

The piston height is governed by the clearance between the head and the piston. You must allow for rod stretch though. Approx 0.035" (0.9mm) for standard rods. If your block has not been decked then its a 204.1mm height. The rods should be 133.0mm +/- 0.05mm so use 133.05mm. The stroke is 82mm for A15's so use 41mm radius. I use a gasket thickness of 0.85 mm for an ACL head gasket. So the max piston height is 204.1 + 0.85 - 133.05 - 41 - 0.9 = 30.0mm

If you have decked the block or have different pistons etc in it then just substitute the relevant values in there. Static compression is then governed by the dish in the piston (if any) the combustion chamber volume (27cc as you say) and the volume of the gasket. Dynamic compression also accounts for valve timing as you know.

I can help you with all that stuff in more detail if you like. You've got me interested in the USA pistons now !!!! how much you reckon we could get some for ??? What about a bulk deal. I bet some other members would like to get their hands on a set of nice forgies!

Thanks for all the help so far guys!!
I'm trying to chase one up locally (just to speed things up as I'm running out of holidays). If I can't find one I'll PM you my address tonight Dattoman. I'd really appreciate you sending me one!!
Daniel.

Dattoman_1000: I've noticed you use the UC piston and turn it down to remove approx 1.0 to 1.5mm off the top. I've done this myself. It makes the piston very light and it revs nicely but if you mix it with high compression and advance the timing too much it will fatigue and crack the piston over time. However, we've had experience with this setup lasting for 4 years in a double entered car going to most events. The trick is to eliminate knocking and retard the timing. Note: we tried advancing the timing and it reduced the power anyway!!

I'm currently looking at other cast pistons which do not require me to remove any material from them. Have you thought of this option??? I can let you in on what I know if that helps you.

Just thought I'd mention this because costs can runaway sooo easily with racing and if you spend money and it doesn't perform, or worse still, blows up due to another reason (ie valve sticks etc) then it becomes terribly dishartening. After all, the most satisfaction from racing a datsun is beating those late model cars with all their fancy twin cams and efi and possibly even turbos with an old a-series pushrod motor!!

But on the other hand, if one could obtain a set of forgies for approx AU$650 like the ones above.....

any mags ??

Dodgeman: Ok, I'll get too it...

I bought this car off ebay cause it was a good straight little car. Working full time and doing uni full time as well keeps me really busy. I'm also trying to save for our wedding in may next year, so money isn't free-flowing at the moment.

I've decided the first part of this project will be to get the brakes working well. I'm picking up a R31 rear end in sydney hopefully tomorrow. Disks are planned for the front as well, but I'm not there yet.

This car will be road registered and a test bed for new motors for the race car. Mick and myself want to muck around with efi and fine tuning the intake and exhaust setup for the race car. It's too hard to do it at the track and who can afford dyno time each fortnight to try stuff!!

Well geez, can't beat that offer. I wouldn't mind getting one of your modified rods then Neil. Although the master cylinder I've purchased is a 13/16" unit (20.64mm from memory). I'm wondering if it is different to the 11/16" unit you've mentioned.

This unit of mine is also a captive rod type using a circlip. The original KB10 pushrod fits in beautifully, its just too short. Do you need a pic of this unit ???

If you think you can make a rod to fit, then send one over !!! I'll keep this site up-to-date with the result.

...and I won't be running a brake booster!

B310GX: Sorry for the confusion! I should have mentioned that I'm building a new KB10 for road use. The race car is going like a trooper - just got first and third places in the nsw supersprint champ.

I've removed the original master cylinder and I'm installing a sunny master cylinder (the larger one). Basically copying the race car setup. Only the pushrod is now too short to work properly.

Are the 120Y pushrods a solution to this problem?? I guess the sunny pushrod should fit, that is unless the pedal geometery is different somehow.

Dattoman_1000: Thanks mate. If I can't find a pushrod locally and cheaply I might get you to send me one. What do you charge for one??