bump

Matty, the doors are definately different. I think you will be disappointed if I post these bits up to you because they wont fit. I'll have a look around and see if I've got a 1000 wiper motor for you though!

1000 UTE SHELL

Hey guys. I'm wondering if anybody is interested in a 1000 ute SHELL in good nick. The front panels have been cut with a grinder to allow a large radiator and intercooler to be installed, and there is some surface rust in the tray, typical of most utes. Otherwise its a pretty neat and tidy body in original condition. It would suit someone looking for a 1000 ute project but it will need a donar 1000 sedan/coupe/ute/wagon to finish it off. There's heaps of bonus parts attached to it like the rear axle, most of the interior except the seats, all glass, most interior type rubber in good nick, all lights & lens, complete working door windows and winders (best I've come across), grill, brakes, etc, etc.

Ute is located in Newcastle NSW. I have a car trailer and can deliver locally - But I'm not superman...I'm not delivering to Perth.


OTHER PARTS
While I'm at it, I can spare these bits too.
- original A10 engine (may not have carby)
- original 56 type 4-speed gearbox
- original KB10 factory headers/extractors
- original KB10 DELUXE seats with headrest
- original KB10 rear seats

If you are interested in any of these items, please call PM me or phone Daniel on (02) 49550905 after 6pm

Oh yeah, i forgot to add, from my experiece if you replace the bushes (i did with nalothane type) you will get rid of a fair-bit of the sag that Dundee1000 mentioned.

also, watch your suspension travel. I would warn against removing or otherwise reducing the effectiveness of the bump stop. its an important part of any suspension setup. you can shorten it a tad but keep it realistic.

This is my ideas.

method 1
You can take a hacksaw to the rubber blocks that sit underneath the end of the spring pack on the lower control arm. this will lower the car up to about 20mm each side assuming you leave half of the rubber block. Note, you need to leave 'some' (about half) of the rubber otherwise the spring will 'slide' on the rubber and cause friction, which will just be horrible.

method 2
1. remove the spring
2. place on a level surface and measure the height of the spring in the centre.
3. separate the spring leafs buy removing the bolt in the centre. Careful - leafs will want to fly everywhere so use a vice and strap it just in case.
4. start with the longest leaf. place it in a vice so that it looks like a frown (i.e. upside down smile). using a ball-pien hammer, tap the upper surface of the spring within the jaws. you want to hit everywhere, so it looks like theres a little dot at every 1mm spacing. move the leaf within the jaw and work your way from one end to the other.
5. reassemble the spring pack and remeasure.
6. repeat this process for the other leafs until you achieve the desired lowering amount.
7. reinstall the spring.

You might be surprised how quick it is to do this and it will cost you zippo. you should be able to do each leaf in about 10-15 minutes. to raise the spring, just tap on the other side of the leafs.

method 3
remove the spring and take it to a spring manufacturer such as Dumbrell springs in Wallsend NSW. They will charge you a few hundred dollars and will probably just apply method 2.

hope this helps.

Still looking for one!!!
Anybody ??!?

well....its not a silly thought! It will be very quick and easy to bang out a few heads if 80% of the work is done via machining. It won't be NC though, just good ol' manual machining. I'm still needing an oval port head. A late model H89 would be best?!?!

Oh yeah, its you stevo!!
I'm at Maryland. I've got a new datto bearing in a box here if that will help you.
(02) 4955 0905. I'm going to bed at 9:30 so get in quick if you want it!
Daniel.

I checked a T-50 gearbox bearing and a 60-series 4-speed datto bearing. They were a directly-swappable item for the fit onto the bearing carrier and I think the length was about the same. The main difference was one had a larger diameter contact zone with the clutch fingers. I'm sure you'll work it out pretty quickly.

Yeah, I know. I was intending to use those pics, but it's just not accurate enough looking at a photo. I'll be venturing very close to some water ports. I'm also trying to do a lot of machining (i.e. via a machine not a hand-held die grinder) to get the ports really accurate and smooth.

Still looking!!!!