Having done this a couple of times, here is what I used.
Stanza struts (cut down with coilovers).
1200 or stanza lower control arms (ones I got were the same).
1200 steering arm, outer and inner tie rods.
1200 radius rod
1200 ball joint (there are two different lengths)
1200 strut tops.

Stanza struts are too long for 1200s.

Stanza shock length is 438mm.
200b is 403mm,
standard 1200 is 418mm,
R31 is 363mm,
z31 is 357mm.

So it depends on how low you want to go.
There are a few problems with lowered stanza struts and decent size wheels.
You can't get away from the scrub with this combo, wheel and tyre combo are limited due in offset, due to the space between tyre and spring (for lowered). But with rear wheel drived cars it is acceptable.

Moving the inner mounting point of the LCA out by 10mm will provide more static camber, this should be able to be accommodated by the tie rods, same effect as using the longer ball joints such as that in the utes (and i think 120ys as well).

Moving the inner mounting point of the LCA out and up is a way to address both the roll centre height and static camber or you can use adjustable camber tops, longer ball joints, and spacers between the strut and steering arm to achieve the same outcome.

Depending if it is full race or race/road combo. Full race I would recommend looking at R31 struts in lieu of Stanza, the strut offset allows for great wheel choice and less scrub, the compromise here is the R31 struts are about 1 deg less static camber to that of the Stanza setup, this will have to be compensated by some other means.

Generally, when you are working with a combined brake master cylinder you will need to balance the bore size based on the rear effect (i.e the rears will lock up first) or limit the rears through a restricting valve. This means a larger bore which gives less overall pressure for the same pedal effort.
With a booster, you will loose pedal feel, which you don't want to do for race. However for road, you will require less pedal effort (which is really a comfort thing given the size brakes you are talking about).

But if the budget is tight that selecting one off a doner car is important (not a new one) then Stanza is probably ok i suspect it will be around 7/8 Inch. Really anywhere from 3/4 (will probably require a restrictor in rears or they will lock up) to 1 inch would be fine (will require a lot of force to get the brakes to lock up).

yeah thats the one.
I forgot to look up the photos last night.
To get the dash to sit so far back from the steering wheel, you need to cut away the windscreen vents section.
Therefore for compliance on the street you would need to retrofits some vents.

There was a Burnt orange 1200 ute done this way at sumernats about 5-7 years ago that I saw and likes.
I did buy a Starlet dash once to try to get it to fit but abandoned the program (abandoned the ute build not just the dash - moved onto Coupes).
The Starlet dash is too wide so needs to be narrowed (Not too hard), but also too deep (No room between steering wheel and dash). I think I have some photo's of it at home (I will check tonight and upload them if I do). I remember it looking pretty good in there though.
Major issues would be to re-attach the ends of the dash and create new vents for the demister.

Like Wardy said, I too now prefer the original 1200 dash pad and like to play with different facia designs to get a more modern feel.

Bryan

There is some science to this, but rule of thumb will probably get you there quicker.
I've been playing around with this at the moment for my Circuit racing car.

Science approach:
Usually you work forwards from calliper piston size and numbers, Disc Diam, wheel diam, Centre of Gravity location/height, weight distribution front to rear, max -G of the stop, Brake pad friction and tyre friction values. This will lead you to a ideal front and rear circuit pressure required.

Then you use your pedal pressure (i.e how much foot force you want on the pedal), pedal ratio and work out the required master cylinder size. Lastly, you need to ensure that the stroke of the master cylinder can move enough fluid for the brake size, so work out the total displacement of fluid required.

Whilst all this ideal stuff is great, when you only have the choice of three master cylinder sizes, what's the point of knowing you master cylinder diameter requirements to 10 decimal places if they aren't available or working backwards to piston sizes that don't exist, rotor diameters that you can't get.

I'm using S4 RX7 callipers on the front of my circuit car (Currently in build), which have a piston Diam of 1.28" and will be using a front Master cylinder Diam of 0.625".

The Key thing I am working on is keeping the same ratio of front to rear brake force. I.e I calculated the ideal pressure requirements front and rear and worked out the front braking %, when choosing the front cylinder based on what is available, I will choose the rear size based on what keeps the same overall front brake %. Therefore I may require more or less pedal pressure to achieve the required circuit pressure but at least I know the front and rear are still in the same %.
If I have miss calculated the max -g and hence the weight distribution front to rear changes, which will lead to an overall change to the front braking %, I can always bias this change out using the bias adjustments on the pedal.

Also, try http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml for some articles that might help.

Bryan

Stick with leaf springs unless you know what your are doing with converting to a 3/4/5 link system.
It's not so much a matter of good quality workmanship surrounding the welding or choosing the thickness/type of material that will make an engineer worth his salt cringe, it will be the quality of the design and it's impact on the overall vehicle dynamics that should be first assessed, get that wrong and you can make the car handle very poorly even worse then your original setup, which by the way can be made to handle almost as well a 3/4/5 link system. Example is Doug Moss 120y he races in NSW IPRA.

The below link gives you some example of some of the different types available, which one would you choose? each has pro's and con's.
http://www.susprog.com/susptype.htm

Hi all,
I am in the market for two S12/bluebird front wheel hubs as mentioned in the topic.
I am located in the Newcastle area.
contact via PM or post here please.

Cheers

Bryan

Damien,
There is a wealth of info around the net.
SR20 VVL engine is the one you are thinking of, which will make searching for info easier.
Problem with VVL in RWD is the Distributor and VVL solenoids are on the back of the head and both will need to be relocated (i.e you can't run a distributor, you will also need to find a new CAM/Crank reference point for the ECU, although I'm sure I have read somewhere that people use the distributor hole as the CAM sensor pickup). Not sure if Nissan did a non-distributor version of the VVL engine?

The FWD SR20/SR16 blocks have a different gearbox pattern which makes it difficult to adapt to a RWD gearbox, however the RWD gearbox will bolt up the RWD block. You could use a SR20 box with min modification to the trans tunnel (to be honest the trans tunnel mods would be the easiest out of all the things that would need to be done).

Bryan

Spax do custom shocks that are hard to go past for the coin.
Last time I looked a single KSX to suit a lowered 1200 coupe were 80pound each.
and about 80 pound delivery direct from the factory.
If you can be bothered to spend a few extra $$$.
Then again, maybe my idea of cheap is not anyone elses.

agree with Jamie don't discount the hilux option.
Ratios are plentiful also.
As for recommended ratio, 3.7 or 3.9:1 for a street car and are also good for loading up at the drags.

Bryan

hmmm,
My understanding of bump steer is when the inner/outer steering tie rods do not follow the same arc as the lower control arm for a Mcpherson strut. I.e in bump the diffence in lower control arm arc to streering arc causes a steering input.

The "bumpsteer spacers" i have seen (eg maddat) that go between the lower control arm and strut (i.e space the strut further away from the steering arm and ball joint/lower control arm but do not change the spacing of the steering arm to lower control arm), in theory (and I could be wrong) don't change the arc path of either the lower control arm or steering tie rods in isolation, therefor do not effect bump steer.

This type of spacer will have an effect on the Roll centre by raising it up (closer to CoG - as stated by Benny).
When the LCA moves past horizontal it has a changing effect to the wheel camber, i.e during compression you get an increase in neg camber unitl horizontal then past that point the camber starts to decrease (tend back towards 0).
I will have another look at "race car vehicle dynamics" tonight to confirm.

As for the original question if there is a problem with Bump steer you need to change to LCA to steering arm arc either by changing the length of the LCA, moving the inner LCA mounting point or the steering arm inner tie rod mounting point or changing the outer steering tie rod location (ie new steering arm geometry).

Bryan