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   All Posts (mcgee)


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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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I'm having a second guess about the problem.
I spoke to the machinist today they are happy to help fix the problem (if it is a long valve) so that part is covered.
My concern is that I may have not really reset the lifters properly. 1-2mm extra long valves should be taken up by lifters which have about 4mm total travel.

Looking into how they work I still don't understand why they wouldn't have bleed down the the required height. Do the CA18 lifters actually bleed back down on their own or are they a one way, pump up only deal?

I wonder if by following the guide below I have actually pumped them up to full height before installing them? If so, then why did they not bleed back down when the cam was installed.
http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/917346/Lifter-Rebuild-101.html
Using the above guide I'm pretty sure the lifter is reset back to full extension? Is that the way others see it?
My reasoning for coming to this conclusion is with oil in the "lower lifter body", then bleeding all the air out the lifter body returns to the springs natural height. The check valve draws oil in until the spring reaches this height, at this point the lifter is incompressible, as it is full of oil. Is this not full lifter extension?

However without oil the spring is free to move and the lifter body compresses. Should they not be installed with air in the lower lifter body and just bleed through cam rotation and spring pressure. When the engine oil pressure comes up, wouldn't this fill the reservoir and with successive cam rotations will compress the internal spring and oil will be drawn in through the check valve until the lash is correct and the lifter is bled.

Maybe Ive proved my lifter hold pressure and have not reset them?
How have others reset their lifters when they have replaced cams or valves?

Posted on: 2015/9/7 9:27
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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had a bit of a setback today.
Had suspicion that the replacement valves might have been a bit long and confirmed this today with a leakdown check.
No. 1 cylinder is not holding pressure and leaking though the inlet valves.
All the lifters were reset when the engine was disassembled and during reassembly I noticed the two new valves made those lifters sit a little high (maybe 1mm max), I thought the lifter may have compensated but obviously it doesn't work that way (as I said they were already reset) and is permanently cracking the valve open :( . Frustrating to have to pull the head off, I should be ok to reuse the head gasket.
Kicking myself I didn't chase/fix this earlier.
Anyway should be about 2hours to remove the head and it can be done in situ which is a slight bonus. I'll chat to the machinist tomorrow to see what he wants to do.

Will probably redo the timing belt cover whilst it is all out. I don't like the fact the belt is so exposed, worried i'll forget and put my hand on there when it is running.
I bought a 89mm holesaw blade yesterday for another job. This will work a treat to still access the adjustable timing gears.

Posted on: 2015/9/6 10:12
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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did a few little things today.
Heat wrapped the exhaust, it is temp installed with the turbo to work on the dump pipe.
Still itchy from the fiberglass wrap :) but it looks pretty good. Should keep the valve cover seal from melting. Will also wrap the dump pipe when finished and will do a bet of the tail pipe where it gets close to the floor.
Working on the dump pipe but the flow-on effect to the exhaust was too much work to finish today.

Had to redo the intake box as the new turbo position put the piping out slightly. But on a positive note with the new turbo position and racing harmonic balance it is much easier to install/uninstall the engine down.

Got all the new fittings for the turbo oil and water lines. For anyone that is interested the CA18 block oil feed line has a 1.4mm restrictor in it and the block thread is 1/8 BSP, the other end of the 90 deg fitting is a M12x1.0. Turbo feed was 7/16-27" and the water lines are M14. Can get you the Speedflow references if anyone wants them.
Anyway not as much progress as I would have likes but getting there slowly.

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Posted on: 2015/9/5 11:48
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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Sure anytime my two favourite things to talk about. Datsun's and racing.
Drop me a PM if you want to catch up. as you can see I'm on the north side of the river.

Posted on: 2015/9/3 15:35
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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Exhaust manifold is finished and waiting for some heat wrap.
Engine is back in also. Few progress pics below.

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Posted on: 2015/9/3 11:14
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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Hoping for this year but maybe not in a race.
The race season is nearly over. Maybe two races left.

Posted on: 2015/9/3 0:40
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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did a bit more today.
Exhaust manifold is coming along nicely. Ran out of gas on the tig so have to wait another week to finish it.
turbo site closer to block now, which will give more room to the strut tower (always been a problem for me).
Will have to modify the dump pipe to get around the gearbox.
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Posted on: 2015/8/30 12:52
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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A few updates from today.
Mostly all Bach together now.
Will work on the exhaust manifold next weekend.
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Posted on: 2015/8/22 13:02
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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Oda70, it is a 2 way LSD. They don't a 1.5way for the hilux. Actually they don't make one for the hilux, you need to use a combo of supra and hilux bearings to make it fit or machine a 4mm spacer for the ring gear. I'll post photos when I get up to installing it.
Back to the rebuild. Made some more progress today.
Almost all back together now.
Head is on, cams are in.
New cam gears bolts hit the timing cover back plate bolts so will have to fix that.
Missing one oil filter bolt too, so need to do a bit of bolt shopping.

Bottom end ready for sump
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Head studs back in. Bought a couple of second hand torque wrenches for the build. My new favourite tool, snap-on 3/8 torque wrench. Calibrated at work on Friday it was less then 0.5ft.lbs out across the entire range. 4-75 ft lbs. lovely tool.
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Nice clean head, the top cylinder is no 4, you can still see the damage in the quench pads from the bolt it ingested about 6 years ago, went strong even with this damage. You might also note the fitting at the top, this is the head drain. I had a threaded insert made up to replace one of the welsh plugs. This goes around the back of the head and returns to the sump under the oil filter (Can see the fitting in a later photo.)
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Now it's starting to look like an engine. New cam gears took a bit of work to fit, and as above the bolts are too long so need to be replaced, glad I noticed it before buttoning it up further.
I'm running 2x Exhaust cams too, so need adjustable gears.
New oil pump & water pump while I was at it.
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Cam covers back on just to keep the dust out, will probably go for a mat black this time. Sump looking good too.
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last one for this weekend, oil filter and cooler installed and can see the nice work done on the inlet side. some porting was done when I first had it build, no more port work done this time.
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Posted on: 2015/8/16 11:28
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Re: 3J Improved Production coupe- Racing Videos & Progress
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I use that port as a bypass when the thermostat is closed and also for the oil cooler.
I am moving to speedflow fittings for the turbo now.

Posted on: 2015/8/16 3:57
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