Here is a pic of the back of my alternator. Au delivered version
The bolt on the back is the location of the earth wire.
The black shielded one at 90 deg is the main charge wire.

Hope that helps.

Well the pictures can be deceiving. It isn't cracked...
Back up into the head area to determine what the rattle is.
Noticed all the intake runners with the injectors had black tacky stuff all over them, where as the others without injectors did not. Wonder if some rubber in the fuel system has broken down with E85.
All the filters looks clean, unsure. I did use some upper engine cleaner a while ago, I wonder if that may have reacted with the ethanol and caused it to gunk up??

Anyway, while I have the engine all apart I might still go with the rebuild.
Will keep you posted.

I should qualify, it is the resistance that is important to match, not so much the length.
So a shorter, lighter gauge S wire is acceptable.

A couple of photos from the boroscope.

haha beat me too it, As above.

The alternator for the CA has 4 wires. E-B-S-L. S&L are in the plug.
Earth, self explanatory = E, is black and screwed into the back of the alternator.
The Main charge wire from the battery is on a stud (shielded stud and the original was white but thick). This is B, this goes to the battery through a fuseable link or high amp fuse (around 100amps).
The two wires in the plug are S and L.
S is the white wire which is a balance wire and should be roughly the same length as the main charge wire B and terminated on B close (if not on) the Battery. There is no need for a fuse on this wire. What this does is sense when the battery is full and stops the alternator overcharging the battery. Some people drop this wire but it is not advisable.
The last wire L is a White/Red wire which goes to the charge light.
The L wire is earthed within the alternator, so your charge light needs to be feed with 12v from another source. If that makes sense?

Depending on your idle speed sometimes you need to rev a little before the charge light will go out, but once out should stay out till you shut down.

Well after taking all the lifter out, pulling each apart and rebuilding all 16 (a few hours of work), engine still has knocking noise :(
I borrowed a boroscope from work today and had a good look inside.
Unfortunately/or maybe fortunately, I have cracked the ring landing on No. 3 piston... Unsure if this is the ticking/knocking noise but suspect it is, still in place but can clearly see a section cracked. No. 4 cylinder was already carrying damage from a bolt ingestion many years ago so the piston and head in No. 4 look like the surface of the moon anyway.
So....time to rebuild.
Will bump up the compression this time round, looking to go to 10/10.5:1, refresh the bottom end with new bearings and have a look at the what head work makes sense, thinking of doing the Exhaust cam swap with some adjustable timing gears. Don't need big cams in a restricted engine.

Will keep you posted on the progress.

Well things didn't go so well on Friday.
On return from the first session (5 laps), engine was making a ticking noise.
Didn't want to risk running it on race day in anger, so pulled out of todays meet.
Suspect (Hope) its a failed lifter, but haven't got to a point of teardown yet to tell. Hope it hasn't caused a valve to hit or worse not a lifter and it's a spun bearing.

Also noted the turbo dump pipe was cracked, will need to repair this but probably would have run with it the way it is, i'll add an extra exhaust mount to take the load off it in the future.
Last issue was the harmonic balancer had come loose (Possible I didn't tighten the front bolt properly when I had the head off last year). As a result the woodruff key had broken in two. Will need to replace (requires taking the crank timing gear off too), I will probably replace the balancer with a ross racing balancer whilst it's out. This will under drive the water pump and alt which is a good thing.

Anyway, these things happen. On an upside the rear bar was a worthwhile upgrade, front inside wheel now stays on the track and contributes to traction around corners :) car felt better mid corner too.
Unfortunately the extra diff pre-load did little to fix the open wheel issues on corner exit, actually, the sway bar probably exacerbates the issue by making the car go into oversteer more. Oh well, when Kaaz in stock again, I will put one in.

Other then all that, car felt good on the track. Driver was rusty, not enough running to break any records, but was good to blow out the cobwebs.

Well this weekend is the start of the racing season.
Heading out tomorrow for a practice run before Saturday racing.
Up against some very quick cars on Saturday, including the 2014 national O2L champion. Not expecting big things but will be very good to get back on the track.
Have a pair of new front shoes lined up for Saturday, will see how it impacts on lap times.
Field is 31 cars, going to be a cracker.

I had the same issue, unsure of thread size though, give MADDAT a call.
I ended up making (had it machined) a male threaded hollow sleeve that went through the firewall and had a flat nut machined for the inside of the firewall. Hopefully that makes sense.

Here is my Coupe ready for it's logbook.