You should find all the panels you need from this magical wonderland:

ebay

I thought you sold your fuel injection manifold?

Is this for a custom setup?

You have to make a blanking plate for the emissions:

plate

the flanges require a far bit of patience. despite the thickness, the flange still warped a bit when I welded it.

10mm Steel beam used for for manifold flanges

outlet manifold

And on a side note, always make sure you use the right gasket- this one was matched to the bottom of the carby rather than the shape of the manifold. the vacuum has torn the section between the two carby throats uot and sucked the gasket through my engine. Would have been interesting to know if it burned up or went straight through.carby gasket

A few updates:

There are a couple of different options for mounting the carby for a draw through system-

the first would possibly be best if you were going for a draw through only setup, which would mean mounting the blower the correct way up:



..... yeah, ok.

corner

offset

But for the setup I have the carb stays in an almost standard position, just forward about 10-15cm, which would potentially allow you to cover the whole lot with a large, round aircleaner (preferably offset to the rear) and keep things looking reasonably standard.
moved forward

rotated 90 deg

I'm in Perth. the kit would weigh about 10kg I spose for shipment purposes.

Well that fell off the front page pretty damn quick.

**BUMP**

A couple of people have asked me to make them Brackets to suit an SC14 onto A14/15. At the moment I am not really in a position to be able to do that, but if there is enough interest I will look into it.

Blower thread


The kit would include brackets, manifolds and idler pulley. Crankshaft pulley would probably have to be done by the purchaser, because I am unlikley to be able to get enough A series pulleys.

The price would probably end up in the $300-400 range (that would be with my time coming in at at $3.50 per hour)

The purchaser would still have to organise to cut and weld the plumbing, but there is possibly an easier alternative- re-routing the heater return line to the spare (emissions related) plug on the firewall side of the inlet maifold.

The total cost of this conversion would probably come in at $1000-1500 depending on how much you got the blower for, if you can do the plumbing welding yourself and what fuel pump & carby combo you use.

If there is not a significant level of interest I will just post up some plans for people who are keen enough to have a crack themselves.

Oh yeah- and all bets are off untill I actually get the thing running -hopefully this weekend

thanks for that- I'm thinking of either using the 4-A pulley if that is possible or getting the pulley taken off at a machine shop and welded on to my A15 one.

plastic fan is long gone, I am running two thermo fans, but I need a thermostat that opens earlier cos it is pretty damn hot here in summer & the thermo's end up running pretty much non stop to keep it cool. My temp guage also wobbles all over the shop, so I need to sort that out as well.

yup, for the 60A 5- speed, I'll post em up tomorrow if I remember. A full set from nissan (bearings & seals) is about $600 plus $100 each for the sinchro rings. I am pretty sure you can get the bearings aftermarket, but I'm not sure about the synchro's.

Quote:

I have just had a thought- is your engine in your car? If not (and its not too much hassle) would you be able to pull the crank pulley off for a comparo with a A series? I was looking at the crank pulley size on a 86 corolla on the weekend, but didn't have enough time to pull it off and see if it could be easily adapted to fit an A series. The one on the N/A 4A-(k?) series engine I looked at was more like 120mm diameter.

This setup needs a decent front pulley- the one I have made has produced a couple of nasty resonant patches in the rev range (surprise, surprise), so when I upgrade to higher boost I will get somthing made up properly.