Blower is up and running. I don't have the manifolds made up yet, but the blower itself is mounted with the belts working correctly, pumping air around the engine bay. It sounds farking awesome,
EDIT: but made a mess:

nasty mess


Quote:

theyre just generalised numbers, from the same book, a 4 valve head is 88% VE, so that Ferrari head that you're running would have to be at least 130% minimum


kululadotgroen-

Your're right about it being way underdriven, that is deliberate. the 4AGZE runs an SC12 on a 1600 engine, this is a SC14 on a 1500, looking for low boost (4-6 psi) as a testing ground for further mods.

Quote:

I was right about your setup though? 1:1 and 8 psi?

if you assume 100% engine volumetric efficiency you should be seeing 13.5 psi (even more if you adopt the 80% vol. efficiency that is usually used for 2 valve engines)

so if that's right, the blower is only about 60% efficient give or take??

Yeah, in theory that's spot on 10 psi if you assume 100% volumetric efficiency from both the engine and the blower. In reality you won't see more than about 6 because (typically) rootes dont get efficient untill they are spinning at 4000+ rpm (around 90% efficient between 4k and 12-14k at low boost pressures)

A14 force is runnig about a 1:1 ratio and only seeing 8 (?) psi out of it because of this factor and adabiatic loss.

high boost pressure at low blower speed (i.e. this application) is bad news for blower efficiency because it is not moving fast enough to seal the edges. This setup would barley work on an A10 or A12 because the blower would hardly be spinning at all. The advantage of low blower speeds is that it heats the air less, so adabiatic loss is less than it would be in a setup like Wally's wagon.

Swings and roundabouts. the perfect size blower for an A15 is an SC12. the SC14 is too big, but they are about $200 cheaper from the wreckers I asked, and with any kind of luck i'll still get a good result out of i.

Off a water pump for a mid 80's corolla. size is 105mm from memory, blower is 125, so its underdriven by 20%






EDIT
screw you guys, I'm goin home

some link to somewhere possibly about a pulley that I welded onto my crank pulley

I can't believe lynx would go to the effort of casting somthing that pointless

I'll give that a crack then


edit: heres the other half of that o2 sensor

I'll swap ya one for a fuel pump and pressure reg

seriously though, I'm thinking an R31 skyline tank conversion may be a good option here- the tank itself shouldn't cost more than $50-100 out of the paper and would be a cheap way of making sure I don't have to throw out an almost new fuel pump if I decide to go for EFI later on. It is designed to flow 120kw which is more than this setup is ever likley to achieve.

EDIT:

that killed that idea... not enough exhaust space

Yeah, I know I have been trying exactly that procedure

[img]http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=11091&full=1[/img]

and lost patience with it

Awesome dude, can you rig up EFI as well?

still struggling- tried a few times but it seems I will just have to use links.

BTW.... the welding looks pretty bad because it is. If you buy a cheap mig and run it with gasless wire, it will stick two bits of metal together, but don't expect it to be pretty. The welds are sound, but for this kind of stuff I get better, cleaner welds from a stick welder (manual arc). I actually got better results from this welder using stainless (with nitrogen gas) than using the gassless wire on mild steel. Go figure.

Next step-
check the placement

side view

back clearance

Add a pulley

fit the belt..... this one is too big by about 20-40mm

Just need to get the manifolds made up & I should be breaking geaboxes in no time