And if anyone can help me link these damn pics up it would be much appreciated

Right.

first, the water inlet into the block is too long:

Water inlet

Angle grinder, welder & drill are needed to hack it off and relocate the inlet for the heater hose which you can see sticking straight up:

shorter water inlet

The next step is to get a air con bracket and hack off the bottom (photo above)

You also will want to change over to an A15 water pump if you dont already have one. I have designed the brackets so that it will work around an A12 pump, but you will want the extra flow from the smaller pulley:

water pumps

Next step, the blower.... errr make a bracket and see if it fits ..... I have used the original bracket as a brace while welding to keep everything square:
bracket- starting point

Update-

Blower bracket is almost done, welding the idler pulley and some more reinforcement onto it tonight. The belt I bought is too long, so I will probably have to wait till the weekend for the test run to check for belt alignment.

After that, there's not a hell of a lot I can do untill my carby jets arrive.

Pics tomorrow with any kind of luck

So pistons & compression ratio are still stock then?

Can you run your vac advance directly off the inlet manifold, or does it cause problems under boost?

did you drop a heat range on the plugs?

Update- got the bracket tacked together this morning before work for a trial fit- needs some slight adjustments, but looks like it will work. hopefully I'll have the blower mounted by the end of the weekend, so I can put the rest of it back together & get the car back on the road. Then just a matter of sorting out manifolds, fuel pumps & belts, etc.

A14 Force, can you run back over your ignition, carby and driveline mods? I know you have mentioned them I just can't find the posts....... I think half of them are posted under a picture, which is always difficult to find.

i.e.
ignition advance- setting used + distributor mods, coil upgrade?

carby used- & jets? if I remember you started with a 32/36 DGV but it wasn't up to it

fuel pump- stock?

Bigger clutch?

driveshaft- stock?

Them nitro burning cars would have a pretty horrendous exhaust heat & flow characteristics..... I wonder if a hirdryer (or two) would stand up to it?

I dont think the physicists argue about roots blower vs turbo- turbos are more efficient, end of story.

comes down to*ehem* lifestyle choice

gasoline is obsolete in the world of 4.5 sec 1/4 mile times

Seriously though, they are an infficient bit of gear and take a lot more power to run than a turbo, but the overall performance gain is still huge if you can get it set up right..... which should be an easier to goal to achieve (with a carby setup) because there are less combinations of boost, throttle position and engine speed than with a turbo.

Did I mention that they sound cool?

Disco stu has mounted his blower upside down & over the other side of the engine bay

the yellow engine bay


and A14 force has mounted his sideways and has not reported any trouble with it:

sideways

Datsundrifter1- supercharging is not better than turbocharging. On any given engine, set up optimally for the application (cam, ignition, exhaust etc) a turbocharger will make more peak power than a roots blower. Set up with EFI, the turbo should make more power and still be drivable, without excessive lag etc.
People like me like blowers cos they give good torque down low which is ideal for a street car, and because they suit the technology of the era.........and also cos my knuckles drag along the ground.

Prospec- Depends what engine it's on- a rootes will push more than 10 psi under the right circumstances, but they become inefficient at high boost. If you are planning for more than 10 psi you probably want to consider all your options & look towards injection forgies etc, in which case money is no object & you would chose something other than a $250-300 blower off a late eighties toyota

EDIT:

and another upside down

I've had a change of heart last night on the blow through setup.

Looking at things a bit more closely I have realised that if I change the mounting position & mount the blower upside down I will be able to make up some new mild steel manifolds (less of a headache than trying to modify the alloy ones) to give the option of either draw through or blow through. It will be a bit of stuffing around to swap between the two setups, but it will make the design more versatile & allow me to start with a draw through & fiddle with that while I source bits for the blow through.

Initially I was not excited about draw through because of the extra inefficiencies (You have to run the carby super rich because fuel sticks to the blower lobes, warm intake charge means that adabiatic loss is high etc) But as a simple low boost starting point it may not be such a bad thing.

Quote:

The standard is to run a bypass circuit rather than BOV. It's a manifold vac operated secondary Throttle body that opens to allow air to run directly from the outlet of the blower to the inlet of the blower- & closes under boost
- I reckon a BOV would work but would be even more annoying than normal because it would scream its head off on overrun untill the engine revs dropped (turbo jsut goes pssst and by that time there is no more pressure from exhaust).

-Fair call on the other point- EDIT at idle or just off idle, with the throttle a few mm open you would still get manifolc vac- after that the fun starts