From measurements, mine (1978 ute) are +32mm, approx 96mm backspace (from hub face mating surface to the edge of the rim, closest to the strut) and approx 32mm to the outside rim edge. Total width is 128mm (approx 5") but there are differing accounts of actual rim width (measured from the inside, where the tyre beads on).... some people reckon 4" some reckon 4.5"

5"max!!! ouch that hurts.

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poor mans 12 slotters there I was thinking that 12 slotters are what poor men put on their car

Thanks boofhead, I'd also be keen to hear about what people have have found worked/ didnt work.

There were monroe gas inserts in my struts. When I took them apart they were really soft and squelchy sounding on the bump and jerky on the rebound, so I figure they are shagged, but I dont have a lot of experience with suspensions...... that's not normal, is it

There was also a lot of oil in the strut, I figured it was leakage from the previous strut, but I have heard it is in there deliberatley for heat dissipation. can anyone confirm this?

EDITS:

6.0" x 14 or 15in rims will fit with a +38 offset (checked at the mag shop) but only leave about 2-3mm between rim and strut.... nowhere near enough.

6.0" x 14 or 15in with a +35 offset fit with a reasonable amount of clearance i.e. a bit more than 5-8mm (couldn't actually measure, but they looked ok)

May depend on the rim as well, because the second set (14 X 6, +35) had more than an extra 3mm clearance. These rims had 185/70/14's on them and there was clearance all round, but it was only a couple of mm at the tyre sidewall.

Does anyone know how much sidewall bulge you get out of a 195/50/15 on a 6" rim

As for the +2 rule (W.A.) all of the guy's in the shops said dont worry about it, you will never get picked up for having 15"s unless the cop/inspector is a datsun guru and knows that 1200's came out with 12" not 13".

If the photo was reversed, the throttle cable would be near the corner of the firewall & the clutch slave would be in the middle
So I wonder if this brake booster setup actually makes the brakes worse- you tend to get a bit of pressure out of the oil breather

So if we're not playing "spot the datsun parts", then what gives

I had a quick look at the built in camber angle of the two struts, and they looked to be the same (I will check properly when I get the chance) so, with a stock or lowered ride height you should still have neutral or negative camber at the wheels, even if you use the shorter original control arm.

Stock control arms should solve your problem i.e. bring the wheels in by 10 mm each side........ And then wack the stanza ones back in once it has been passed. EDIT:
My 1978 ute lower ball joints have the same bolt spacing (where they attach to the lower control arm) as the stanza- Trapezium shape, from bolt centre to bolt centre 52mm at the outer, 30mm at the inner and 28mm on the side. Earlier models may be different.

As for rims, I just asked today +2" rule applies to diameter & + 1" to width, you need engineering approval for more than that (in western Australia). I'm spewing cos 195/50/15's are only give you a 5% speedo error, compared to the 155/80/12's that are on it. (and the speedo reads high anyway, so it would improve the accuracy)

I am pretty sure my stock rims are 5" not 4.5" EDIT: no dammit, I was measuring from the outer edges rather than inner face!

Can you post up more details of the 20V conversion? they're a good engine and suit the car well I reckon (apart from the toyota badge)

I haven't seen one in a while, but it looks suspiciously like an older A-12 block.

Edit: and what the hell is going on with the hose from the water pump to the thermostat

What is spinning me out is that you have water galleries under the inlet for 3&4 but not 1&2..... welded up? never there?

Last time I was up in clownsville I saw an "Im a grunterhunter" bumper sticker on a 80 series landy. Classic- it works on so many levels. But no, unfortunatley I've never been.