ddgonzonal- you're right about the stock manifold..... I had just been reading another post about 1 and 4 leaning out and made the assumption that they were a different length. Should open the bonnet more often!

As for the other topic, I reckon that's just a slightly altnative look at the same problem.
What I am getting at;
in the simplified textbook 'model' engine, you only ever have one cylinder filling at any one time therefore if a carby is big enough to fill the cylinder, its big enough to do the job for four. In reality this is a load of crap because of cam timing..... But the overlap period occurs when the pistons are moving slowly (at the top and bottom of their strokes) so presumably there would be less 'demand' for fuel anyway. Having individual throats for each cylinder will allow for better sacvenging because the momentum of the charge continues into that cylinder rather than being directed to the next one, so that (I would have thought) is the main advantage of twin webbers.

What I am trying to work out is if there is a better way to set up a pair of SU's (or a big single webber)

Edit: Moving a bit fast for me- Freak, so you reckon its mainly just to so with the curves in the manifold (or lack of them)?

I know this is a pretty subjective question if you didnt dynotune, but if you had to put a number on it, how much more power/ torque do you reckon you got out of the SU's over the standard carb? (i.e. 5-10% or noticably more than that?)

I've been thinking..... (not enough to be useful, just enough to be dangerous) about carby setups for fours.

Quad throttle bodies (twin webbers or injection) are always going to be the best solution. But are twin SU's really an improvement on a single large 2 barrel carby?

Twin SU's are set up on cylnders 1&2 and 3&4. These pairs of cylinders fire directly after each other (Ive always reckond a more logical way of looking at 4 cyl firing order is 2-1-3-4). This means that each SU is supplying fuel to 2 cylinders in rapid sucession and then doing sweet FA for the rest of the cycle.

To get consistent flow through a twin setup you would have to have to have 1 carb supplying cyl 1 & 4 and the other supplying 2&3. This way the fuel/air pulses would be directly opposite each other in the cycle. This would make for one mongrel of an inlet manifold if you sorted it out with equal length runners......

Which brings me to a single large carby. Flow through the carby is more or less constant as it feeds all cylinders. The main problem with them is the different length manifold runners. Without too much hassle you should be able to make an equal length inlet manifold for a large single.

So what do you reckon? Would it give an actual advantage or would the inlet just end up with too many corners in it?

(or is there actually a benefit from the twin SU setup that I have overlooked)

Normo,
From what I remember from the magazine article,Tuffaz has volvo brakes all round, on sunny struts at the front and volvo diff at the back. Hassles getting the front brakes onto the sunny struts, but they didnt specify what the the problems were. That ute had simmons FR17's...... Perhaps the new owner can post us up some pics!!!

I have seen a volvo conversion on a torana, where they had just used the volvo 5 spoke mags painted black- they looked surprisingly good.

There's a pic in this place somewhere of an A series being dropped out. You've got 2 options, you can undo the strut tops, brake hoses, steering arms (pitman and idler), and radius rods, sway bar (plus all of the normal stuff you would have to do anyway) and then undo the engine and GB crossmember bolts, and drop the whole lot down on a jack. The second option is the same but yoy leave the struts in the car- and this will make the front end a lot heavier. Bear in mind you have to get a lot of height at the front to get it out from under the car. In reality ist is probably more work than taking the gearbox out first, but may be the only option if you cant get to the bolts at the back of the bell housing.

Have done this job on a corrolla but not a 1200 so use as a rough guide only!!

Also, matching the crossmember holes back up when you put it bac together can be a real pain in the arse.

In classic cars I have seen a "all original, no rust" car advertised for $6500, and a ground up nut and bolt restoration (still all original) for $13,500 but I reckon the bloke with the restored one is living in a dreamworld, with at least $5k too much on it. If yours needs paint but is basically in good nick, then $3500-4500 would be the right kind of money.

But I have seen absolute $hitboxes advetised for $5500 and sell after a couple of weeks, but probably not for that much

What size dellorto's?
Round or oval port manifold?

Freak, sorry to divert the thread at this early stage, but what size SU's are you running? I have an old pair on a L series manifold and I'm trying to work out if its worth doing them up and finding/ making a manifold.... Im running a mild A15.

Cant say that I actually know, but thinking about it logically, your throat size should be the same regardless of single or twin sidedraught webbers. Unless you have a wild cam, won't each of the two throats only ever be filling one cylinder at a time?

i.e there is very little time when cylinder 2 inlet is open at the end of the inlet stroke and cylinder one inlet is open at the start of the inlet stroke (for the next cycle)

Therefore you shouldnt need a bigger carby

Definatley bertone design, I know a bloke in Adelaide who has a small collection of them including a wagon at one stage ..... and a ute (sedan with the boot permanantley removed ) The 1800 version had a bonnet scoop and looked pretty good. The handling wasnt too flash though, really vague steering.

Would make a good start for a rotor conversion..... but now we're way off topic- better make it a SR20 conversion

Ya learn somthing new every day!!! apparently S12 silvias came out with a VG30 at one stage.....
Some useful info there when your'e hunting for half cuts

I'm scratching my head here..... If you're only chasing 120 hp why bother with the hassle of a six? there's plenty of budget fours that will develop those kind of numbers, and very few sixes that are that gutless......

BTW: Mitsu MIVEC is a revvy four that I just researched for a conversion- plenty of detail if you search the posts, difficult conversion tho