You could try a mitsubishi MIVEC

Now we really have the misinformation cranking, cos I was under the impression that the 182ps version was the NEO version and distinguished from the rest of the SR20DE's from VVT rather than just higher compression and a big "E" ...... just found an article with good pics here:
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/august02/jschumacher/
Not too sure about the quality of the content though- the bloke is claiming a 13.2 1/4 from a this engine in a front driver

I'd be keen to get a bit more info on this topic as well. I have only seen the SR20VE Neo in FWD format. If it could be adapted to RWD it would be a ripper conversion (assuming you could get one for a reasonable price)




Is the FWD block the same as the RWD?

Could the crank angle sensor from the CA or something else be used? (probably not the CA cos it would be rotating the wrong way)

How difficult/expensive is it to get a plenum reversed?

Apart from all those hassles, the FWD SR20's are 108kW instead of 120 so unless you had a NEO it wouldnt be worth the trouble

I tried to supercharge an old clapped out 2 stroke model aeroplane engine in the shed when I was kid, hoping for a nice loud bang and some broken bits to show the lads. Used a bit of comressed air, straight into the venturi (with the propellor removed and a flywheel in place instead). Never got any stunning results out of it though. At minimal pressure it revved a tiny bit harder (or at least I kept telling myself it was..... not easy to pick the difference between 15 and 16K rpm), but with a bit more boost it either wouldnt run, or would only just kick over, sounding really sick. I was spewin I never got it to blow up.

I reckon its because the boost is working against the motor. The fuel mix is in the crank case and goes into the cylinder via the transfer port as the piston comes down. When you boost the engine it just increases the pressure in the crankcase and stops the piston from coming back down.

Pretty much just ####ting in your own nest with that one. It may be different with perhipheral ported and multi cylinder2 strokes though..... I dont know enough about them.

I am scratching my head here, cos I cant work out where the hell they drain to. My ute has had the sills and floorpan replaced, and I am wondering if the panel beater has either forgotten to drill drain holes, or filled them up.

I'm kind of scared to think that my chassis is filling up with water

Quote:

Educate me here coops, a buggered big end is bad news by all accounts, but why would it drop the compression

[img]http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=6562[/img]

Well the photos are in there somewhere.... Front, back, side and bellhousing.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=6562

is that it????

Yeah, that'd do it- a real bastard to drain though..... and I'm not sure how well gearboxes work if you try to run them backwards... Shift quality and durability might not be too good!!!

Not sure how to post these pics either, theyre 25K jpegs, but there's nothing in the menus to tell you how to post and what size it should be

The conversion is do-able but you would need a pretty serious budget and or a good mate withy a machining workshop.

The final series of mivecs (easily identified by their factory extractors) are good for 140kw with a decent exhaust and ignition/fuel tweaks, but the early versions gave them a bad name with reliability issues and only about 110kW. Early ones were the 'wrong' way round, they sat in the engine bay with the front of the engine on the passenger's side, so in a conversion the exhaust would be on the drivers side.
main problems:- clearance for the brake master would be marginal at best. the wide point of the plenum is 315mm from the centreline of the engine. ... there may be problems with the extractors on the idler arm as well (240mm from CL)
Length looks ok at an even 600mm to the crank pulley, but the sump may need "adjustment" to clear the front chassis member. Would need a custom sway bar as well to get round the sump. The engine is also quite tall @670mm (bonnet bulge no worries there )

plumbing problems could be solved pretty easily, and the throttle body needs to be moved to the other end of the plenum.

The main and most obvious problem is the gearbox. fugly FWD pattern, there is no chance of anything coming close without a fairly serious bellhousing graft.

Probably an easier conversion possibility for a LHD car......

I'll post some photos of the donk if anyone's interested and I can get it to work