Makes a lot of sense as an alternative to webers- Especially if you are in a LHD country. They take up about half as much space (room for a master cylinder), sit further away from the exhaust..... and I'm pretty sure most Kei-hin's are CV carbies, so they would give you better economy on the street than webers.

worth thinking about.

Aren't they all 2 stroke?

Fair call, but working on the car isnt much fun at 1am so you might as well be at the keyboard!!

here are some new photos:

painted bits

nothing to see here.

Racing clutch

I have it booked in for a dyno run next tuesday next week. Different dyno to last time, but the same brand so hopefully the results will be comparable.

That could be the easier option..... Would save a lot of hassle for postage, but will push up the price that eveyone else on the list has to pay.

3Rotor cleared this one up for me in a PM- he was using langley/pulsar 1300 pistons & reckons the E15ET pistons should be a straight fit for an A15

I second the motion to have the brace on the bottom for the exhaust manifolds.As they are shown I would have to remove the (inlet) joiner to get around my extractors.

A-15's do their best work down low, even before you start forcing boost into them. Before the blower, mine had more torque at 2500 rpm than it did at 5500. it revved cleanly to 7k but there was no point.

Rebuilt my dizzy yesterday, the mechanical advance was sticky as & would jump from 0 to 5-10 deg of advance (a big part of my low speed detonation problems methinks)

While I was in there I lightened the weights for a more progressive advance profile. Seems like it may have been a bad move, the engine has lost a lot of top end (possibly no longer getting full advance???) Will have to do a bit more testing and find out what's going on.

Hey Piko- next meeting might be a good time to sort out some bulk shipping for these manifold flanges were you on the list?

Colder plugs (i think) hold less heat in the tip, so when the engine is running close to the edge there isn't residual glow in the plug to set off the next charge before the nspark is fired..... wiki would probably tell you for sure.

I'm not really keen to run water injection through the carby because you take up space that could be air/fuel mixture. The way I figure, if you put your water injection in after the carby, all the air & fuel that was going to go in is already there so it should be all good. I'm still thinking of a pressure vessel setup @ 100psi........ but more research is required.

I can see how people blow up their rides though- the temptation to boot it, and then the split second of detonation before you back off...... not good.

Quote:

7.85g per cc for steel
2.56g per cc for alloy

you should be able to get an area from the cad drawings and work it out from that easy enough.

foley huck! I almost missed this thread put me down:

Rally1200 I:2 E:2
Dattoman_1000 I:2 E: 2
dattodevil I: 1
pager I: 1 E: 1
Beattie I: 1 (steel 1pc, oval)
Cable_tie I: 3 alloy 2 Mild E: 5 (all Oval)
LAGWAGON: I: 1 E: 1
boofhead: I: 1 E: 1
Grunterhunter I: 2 E: 1

wouldn't mind a mild steel inlet and a alloy one if there are the numbers for mild steel (what I would really like is a stainless inlet, but let's not complicate things)