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   All Posts (Grunterhunter)




Grunterhunter
Re: SUPERCHARGING A15- 10+ psi!!
#61
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Getting ever closer to blowing it up. Got a 1:1 pulley for the blower and bolted it together. the belt length came to 1260-1285 range which is not available in a 5pk, so I got a 6pk and cut a rib off it

off for a drive- tinktinktink.

nurse it home.
pull outb 5 deg of timing- bwwwwaaaaatinktinktink

nurse it home.
add bucketloads of fuel to the primary circuit (127 to 140 jet) and pull out another 2 degrees of timing, and add some colder plugs.

bwwwwaaaaaaaaaatinkaaaaaaaahhhhhhbwbwsbswbswsbswsbsw

blowing the flame out through the top end and still some detonation on transition/ through the bottom. making just over 10psi

Pulled out so much timing that it is only slightly quicker than it was at 5psi.

need to close the plug gaps up (or get a better ignition system) get some water injection sussed out, and most importantly, recurve the dizzy for less total advance (if possible) and slower progression of advance.

Don't really want to put a head shim in to decompress it, but It may be an easy/cheap option compared to water injection.

Posted on: 2007/3/23 1:01
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Grunterhunter
Re: The detonation thread
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Quote:

sikdatto1200 wrote:
If it was a draw through setup id be laughing ive heard you can easilly setup a system spraying into the compressor nut using a w/washer motor and small jet


Yeah, you can, but you really want the water injected after the compressor for a non intercooled or after the intercooler if you have one. An air to air cooler can only get the charge temp down to ambient at best, but water inj. can get you down below ambient, so its best to knock the initial heat out with the intercooler and then get things properly cold with the water.

Posted on: 2007/3/21 20:43
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Grunterhunter
Re: The detonation thread
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Quote:

sikdatto1200 wrote:
The pump is from here, all looks really proffesional!

http://www.full-throttle.com.au/Engine/Boost%20Cooler.htm


Sikdatto, I emailed this mob and the pumn that I think you were referring to was actually an upgrade kit from 150 to 220 psi. the actual price of the 150psi pump is $399 ($550 rrp) so yeah, not so cheap.

I went to a boat shop today, you can get 45psi pumps for around $95-140, but they are all designed for high flow applications-wash down and bilge I spose. 45psi might do the job.......

Posted on: 2007/3/19 3:52
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Grunterhunter
Re: Can you use A14 rods to lower C/R in an A15?
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Quote:

3Rotor wrote:
What I did, is to use Langley pistons-... the piston would now stick out about 3 mm. in hind site, it would have worked like a charm, if it was an A14,

so I took 1.5mm off the top of the pistons, giving me a nice wide squish-band. Then chopped the rods 1.5mm. This to get me to what I can imagine to be a tad bit higher than Std CR. Now what... I went and got a Shim plate and sandwiched it between two gaskets, and Whua-laa.... been running at 1.2bar on 95/93 ever since....



3Rotor you have me confused here. A14 is shorter stroke than A15 and Langley/pulsar E-15ET. I thought A15 and E15ET were the same bore & stroke??

so why was the deck height out- different gudgeon pin position and conrod length?

How did you shorten the rods!!!???? actually cut and shorten



cheers. I was looking into this for my next build.....

Posted on: 2007/3/16 6:20
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Grunterhunter
Re: Factory Injection Manifold for Sale
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Quote:

boofhead wrote:
worth as much as you can afford ... they are rare as and only come up once in a while.


I reckon they are worth almost as much as it would cost to fabricate a better one, no more than that, unless you need a factory system for some reason.

hijack ramble coming up-
saw a LPG only, electronic dizzy, A-15 in a forklift today. different head, different inlet manifold (similar drop down design as GA13DE) Took all my self control not to slip then dizzy out and stick my points one in while no one was looking!!!

Posted on: 2007/3/15 8:36
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Grunterhunter
Re: The detonation thread
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Quote:

sikdatto1200 wrote:
Its an injection setup using a haltech ecu, the afr is just a jaycar one, not the most accurate thing but still gives you a fair idea whats going on, im going to do a water injection system using $100 high pressure pump and correct jet, and using adjustable hobs switch and a solonoid etc, should be under $300 me thinks


Injection eh, you spoilt bast@rd!!

what water pump are you using and where is it from?

For my setup, all I need is a switch on the secondary throttle- Boost is directly proportional to throttle opening, so a simple throttle switch will do the job

I was thinking of using a stainless water filled fire extinguisher, about 1/3 full of water/meth. Rig some high pressure pipework to the inlet with an appropriate size jet and mechanical activation (throttle opening) then just add water/meth + 100psi from your local servo when you fill up.

the only problem is pressure drop/ flow changes as it discharges, and finding a stainless fire extinguisher in the right size.

Posted on: 2007/3/13 15:53
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Grunterhunter
Re: The detonation thread
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Sicdatto1200- what type of carb and AFR meter are you using?

I in my ute (drawthrough, sc14 blower, d/d weber) I sometimes get pinging on transition from cruise to full throttle. the AFR meter clearly shows this to be a lean out problem-as the throttle plate opens the pump jets don't squirt enough extra fuel in.

people tend to report better results out of SU's than standard type carbies as they deal with velocity changes better.

WATER INJECTION-
somthing I am looking into so that I don't have to decomp.

Running a boost activated injection system on a drawthrough setup (with the water injection before the compressor) is conceptually flawed:

The manifold has achieved boost, the switch is triggered, water starts flowing into the carb/inlet manifold, through the compressor and finally reaches the inlet manifold....... how long after the initial signal? possibly only fractions of a second, but definatley a revolution or two after it was required.

to offset this I suppose you could set the switch a psi below where you need it.

Also, the guy at my local dyno shop assures me that running water through a turbo or supercharger will make atomisation worse, not better.





Posted on: 2007/3/13 13:28
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Grunterhunter
Re: SUPERCHARGING A15- Supercharger oil
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Quote:

A14force wrote:
I need to know what I need to be able to beat.


So you thinking an Australia vs New Zealand testmatch?

Whoever burns a hole in their piston first can provide the trophy

Will hopefully get it on the dyno at 5psi sometime in the next couple of weeks.

Posted on: 2007/3/11 13:57
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Grunterhunter
Re: Can you use A14 rods to lower C/R in an A15?
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Conceptually not a good idea either. the gap between the top rim of the piston and the head is set by your engine builder and is usually around 40 thou. increasing this gap *can* cause problems with detonation.This is part of the reason why most engine builders will advise against using a decompression shim. It seems to depend a lot on the engine though- plenty of people use decomp shims and have no problems.

I think pulsar ET pistons are the standard if you need to decomp an A15 for turbo..... hmmm search time.

Posted on: 2007/3/11 13:49
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Re: SUPERCHARGING A15- Supercharger oil
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Yeah, mine cost $120 each for labour plus around $50 to buy all the different pulleys I needed, so $145 each all up. Harsh. especially when he screwed them up and I had to find another couple of pulleys for him (he wasn't prepared to source them, even though it was his mistake)

I think i have found the perfect pressure vessel for a cheap, high quality water injection system- a 2 or 3 litre stainless water fire extinguisher. Just a matter of finding one now.

Posted on: 2007/3/7 21:47
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