I have import subi RX (i think) seats in mine, look good and very comfy. they sit about 10mm higher than the originals, but don't slump at all when you sit in them, so the actual seating position ends up being 25-35mm higher.... ok if you are a short-arse, but not good if you are over about 5'10".

You need to weld a bracket onto the rails to fit them.

Did some high speed testing yesterday & no more lean-out problems. don't know if it was the ball of solder or the increased seat size that did it, but she's running sweet now. lumbered lazily up to 180kph (approx 5500 rpm) in 5th before I ran out of room. Also not to excited about subjecting a NA design motor to sustained high RPM, high load conditions.

I am getting a couple of crank pulley's made up- a proper one for 5 psi to replace what's on there at the mo, and another that will give me 8-10 psi. (approx 1:1 ratio) I was hoping to find a size that would give 6-7 psi and just get the one pulley made up, but I couldn't find anything in the right diameter.

Will need water/meth injection or decomp before running 8-10 psi.

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that's cr@p. If the government are going to bang on 24/7 about street drags and dangerous driving, they need to provide/ subsidise reasonable alternatives.

CAR: 1200 ute
MOTOR: A15, mild cam (54rwkw)
GEAR BOX: 5 speed
CLUTCH: stocka
DIFF: 4.11
TURBO/SUPER CHARGER/CARBY: 32/36 DGV weber
EXHAST: Extractors into a straight through 2.5"
WHEEL/TYRE package: 185/60R14

60 foot time: 2.3
1/4 mile time: 16.9
MPH/KPH: 76mph (into 8kt headwind)

should have done a mid 16 and a few more mph without the headwind.

Will have another crack when the blower is properly sorted out- hopefully high 14's so I can keep up with those stock 120y's

Hmmmm. sounds like fun.

A few edits & updates: the internal galleries of the 32/36 are about 6mm. There is a lead/solder plug in the side of the top cover where the fuel inlet outlet is, which seals the end of the main gallery that runs to the needle and seat. when I got my carby, the fuel inlet & outlet were leaky, so I soldered them up, but when I did that the whole shebang got hot enough that this solder plug came loose & I had to add a bit of extra solder to it. As it turns out, a large piece of that plug had melted and formed a ball that was in the main gallery, rolling around and blocking it up pretty badly, so that *may* have been the primary source of my lean out problems. I re-soldered everything an I redrilled the seat to 3mm (as big as it can get & still seal) while I was there so now I know that that is the only major restriction in the system.

Unfortunatley it has been too hot around here for any high speed testing.

If all goes well, the next step will be 8psi and water/ methanol injection to help keep charge temperatures down and to control detonation on transition.

I was thinking about that.

What did you down the tank end? Did you have to get the bigger pickup welded in?

The line from the tankand all A15 stuff is 6.5 mm. The 32/36 and fuel pump is all 8mm. but the critical piont in the carby, the needle & seat hole is only 2mm, although I have drilled it out to 2.5, and i am pretty sure the hole from the inlet line to the needle & seat is also only about 2.5mm as well..... so why the farking hell would weber put an inlet line that was over 3 times larger than the holes in the critical sections?????

Nah, draw through.

I have pretty much given up on trying a blow through setup. With the number of times I have had the top off the carby using this setup, doing the same work with a blow through would be a nightmare. I can't see how anyone can get a blowthrough carby to work properly when it comes on bost, unless the carb was specifically designed for the application and had some sort of boost controlled enrichment.

If you were to set it up for say 7psi and had the correct mixture under boost, your cruise mixture would be rich by 50%....... and then on transition you still have that problem of the sudden change in both pressure and flow that is difficult to compensate for.

What kind of gain did you get out of the holley over the DGV? Just about everyone who has seen my setup who knows about carbies has said that the DGV is too small (although when you do the CFM calculations it should be about right)

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I'm going to have to start listening to your wisdom. Even with the new pump it has been running lean at high speed, high load. I need to drop the air corrector right down in the secondary to make sure it isnt a tuning thing, but it tends to come on pretty suddenly as though the pump cant keep up. the pump is rated to 130L/hr and is supposed to be able to support 5L V8's so that points to the main fuel galleries in the carb being too small.

Does the 350 Holley have the same bolt pattern as the DGV? seems unlikley

in other news, the ventilation pipes to the blower are controlled by the ECU, but as a rough approximation they are closed when the manifold is in vac and open when it is on boost. not sure if this will have an effect on the mixtures If it was set up to do that, but with them open the whole time it leans the mixture out quite a lot (about 5 AFR units) as the engine gets extra air through the vents. does not affect idle as much as a normal vac leak though.

This probably isnt the kind of help uou are looking for, but from experience tuning carbies using the various methods you find in books and online is problematic cos unless you have 10 years experience you will always struggle. I got a cheap AFR meter kit ($65 aud) and o2 sensor in the exhaust & havn't looked back. They aren't super accurate but a damn site better than sniffing exhausts and the old 'two turns in on the idle, oncrease the main by one size, and see if it getts a flat spot at 2550 rpm on transition from 1/4 throttle to 5/8 throttle..... and if it does then check the float level' All that gear has you running around in circles for weeks.

Just got a copy of the supercharger chapter for the MR2 (SC12) from my friendly local Toyota mechanic. Have yet to digest it all, but there is official confirmation that:
a) the seals will be buggered if you don't hook up the vac line plumbing, & it will consume the gear oil and front bearing grease.
b) it is controlled by the computer but seems to be Vac/boost related so may be able to be done adequatley with 1 way valves.
c) there are no official specs on the blower oil other than that it is 'special Toyota supercharger oil' and should only be replaced with the same stuff at vast expense........

d) factory manuals are full of pedantic cr@p that you can probably get away without doing.

here's to instant torque