Knut, your 1200 coupe is in fantastic condition. Everyone in the club should check it out. If we had a vote among members I bet your car would get the most for best original
condition of any car in the club.

Another solution to your bumperguard problem would be to remove them completely. Then install chrome carriage bolts in the exposed holes. (depending on how fussy your local
police are.) I think the 1200 looks better with the straight chrome bumper.

Merry Christmas to you, one & all Datsun 1200 lovers. Hope you stay warm, or cool if you have a summertime Christmas. (We're hovering around -18c
with blowing snow). For a new years resolution I'm going to put the great house renovation of 2000 behind me. I promise that I'll get my 1200 coupe on the
road in 2001!

My mom bought a brand new dark green Datsun 1200 in 1973, I was 11 years old. I can still remember the price, $2350.00 (Canadian) incl. tax. It had the best fuel economy of any car available
in Canada in '73, 42 miles per imperial gallon. On my 16th birthday I got my learners permit, the two weeks later my full liscence. I was unleashed on the unsuspecting motoring public behind
the wheel of our Datsun 1200. In the '70's Canada was in transition to the metric system. Our 1200 had a MPH speedo while the roadsigns had changed to metric. I would drive around in MPH. If
a roadsign said slow to 70KPH I'd go thru @ 70MPH & eventually was adding another 10 MPH. Dad had replaced the 4ply-bias toyo tires with Michelin'X', I haven't driven many economy cars that
handle as well as a 1200, even today. It's a good thing mom had no idea how I drove her little green car.Some nights I'd put 350 miles on the car,(it cost about $7.00 to fill the tank on the
1200 in 1978). Dad however was a different story. I can remember being called down to the carport where dad was crouched down beside the car, looking @ the excessively worn tread on the outer
edges of the 145/SR/12 tires. "Don't you think it would be a good idea to slow down a little on the corners?" He asked.
Oh ya, I remember why I started this message. Our 1200 Sedan had the 3 hole round guage set with a blank spot where the tach should have gone.

It sounds like your engine is severly carboned-up.
When I worked for Toyota we would see high pressures on Tercel engines, & upon dissasembly they'd be full of carbon.(On piston crowns etc) I work at a Honda dealership now & we often
see high mileage cars that burn oil,& smoke out the tailpipe. When compression is tested they check out ok. When taken appart the top two rings are fine(These controll compression),
but the bottom/ oil rings are all carboned up & stuck in the ring-land. The lesson I've learned from this is that good compression readings don't always tell the full story about ring
wear & or condition.
Good luck.

I may be wrong ,but isn't a 120y a Datsun B210 in the US. The one I can't figure out is a RWD Stanza.(Could it be the 2nd generation 510?) We have FWD
Stanzas in Canada.

http://www.redlineoil.com Is the site where I got this little blurb on "waterwetter". (Supercoolant is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as
much as 30

Its actually illegal to run antifreeze @ most roadrace tracks because it's very slippery when spilled on the track. We ran "Redline water-wetter" & had excellent results.
I haven't talked to anyone @ our local track who hasn't seen lower temps over straight water.
I hadn't thought about viscosity, it would be interesting to see if an engine running an antifreeze mix has HP loss, compared to an engine running straight water.
No hard feelings Stirlingmac, these are after all just my opinions, feel free to tell me if you think I'm full of crap.
Hey how 'bout an A-series, cross flow, louvered, intercooled, rocker cover.

I guess I got my wires crossed a little, I should have written two messages. See what happens when you are typing in the middle of the night. I actually got
sterlingmac & mariospeedwagon confused because they both have good ideas & like to share them.

Dear Stirlingmac, I enjoy your comments & Ideas, you obviously have a lot of 'car' experience, I usually agree with most of what you have to say, but I have to draw the line at your comments
about glycol based antifreeze. Working as a machanic here in Canada you might say that I generally know a fair bit about antifreeze. The name of it confuses a lot of people. Yes its first &
foremost intention is to stop the rad. fluid from freezing. (We mix it up to 60/40, glycol/water for winter use, it sometimes hits -40 C here.) On the other hand we sometimes have
+35 C in the summer time. If you use a good namebrand antifreeze mixed 50/50 it actually raises the boiling point of you cooling system allowing it to run cooler. A properly mixed solution
also sticks to the internal parts of your cooling system to allow better heat transfer(both from engine parts to the coolant, & from the coolant to the radiater. Strait water doesn't cool your
engine as well.
I agree with your comments about synthetic oil, nothing beats regular oil changes for engine protection. For street use regular oil is a cost effective way to go. On the racecar that I used to
pit crew for, synthetic oil won us a regional championship. One hot race weekend we were leading our class during a roadrace when the oil temp started to climb. (the oil cooler was plugged
with debris from the track). It was either pit & lose valuable points or continue & hope for the best. The driver soldiered on as the oil temp continued to climb. The car finished without any
problems & the oil temp was far higher than regular engine oil could have handled. We collected max points that allowed us to win the season points title. So for heavy use or turbo cars maybe
synthetic might be what you'd want to use.(I prefer Mobil One synthetic, but like underwear we all have our own preference).