Brick Hammer & 'Massaging'. Can't take some metal off the inside of the wheels? Had a few mags you could easily take 30 mm at least without compromising the hub strength. Saw a Toyota B/Warner diff housing on EBay, no mention of ratio & I think it's in Vic. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Ke3 ... n_15&hash=item4d35a76733.

Brick Hammer & 'Massaging'. Can't take some metal off the inside of the wheels? Had a few mags you could easily take 30 mm at least without compromising the hub strength. I saw a Toyota B/Warner diff housing on EBay, no mention of ratio & I think it's in Vic.
While it's there, you can't get a spark plug fitted to the exhaust for the flame thrower action, & to start the Barbeque at lunchtime.

Hi Tom, just wondering if Steve is your father. If so, I can remember seeing what could be this body in the shed. Good to know it's going to get used.

Could be air in the lines, too. Flushing the lines with new fluid, bleeding the air, & adjusting the rear brakes should make the brakes work better. Hydraulic seals can deteriorate while sitting, so check for leaks from the rear wheel cylinders. Typically, 280ZX brakes & struts are used in America for front end swaps. Some of the swaps mentioned here are a bit Australia specific, as a lot of local content went into Datsuns during the 80's. Dave (ddgonzal) is our designated translator, he can tell you what things really mean, rather than what they seem to mean. I second the change to Orange or Red. I had a coupe that was originally the orange colour That was repainted Guards Red. Looked pretty good either colour.

Any hints on the new owners of my old racecar. Plus, Id love a bit more info on the front discs. The other car had 273 mm solid discs from an XJ Jag (rear). Would love to know where the 252mm vented discs are from. I think I have some old 1200 ute struts (drummies) that'd make a good candidate for this swap.

Get some brake lines to suit an Australian production 120Y with the PBR calipers, these are the longest lines I know of. The real problem is that they don't list this line anymore. I was lucky in that I found a supplier who had an old catalogue that showed the line & they were able to make it there & then. The other way to get around the trouble involves some welding wire & some artistic ability. Form the welding wire to the shape you need, add a bit more for slack, then take that to the brake supplier as a template. The ends are generic, so you could even take the 200B lines along to show what ends you need to fit. My brake lines cost about $20 each, so I got 4 made.
As to where to get them made, maybe some of our Brisbane/Gold Coast members can suggest some Brake shops.

The first thing I'd try is to get an electronic ignition kit or complete distributor. This will be a good hot up for the stock motor, even if it's only a few HP, the engine should run better through the entire rev range. A small Weber, a 32/36 DGV or from some other model, will make the engine better with proper tuning. All this & you still haven't opened the engine or changed the exhaust. Maybe a service on the head, so all the valves seal properly & the valve guides do their job.
Should still be a nippy little beast, as they were from
the factory.

Best thing to do in my opinion is to put a smaller jet in the secondary side. This is the larger of the 2 jets in the fuel bowl, or the one on the right. It should have a size marking, like 135 or 140 on it. Jets for DGV webers are available from at least 4 sellers on Ebay, or Carburettor Services in Burwood Sydney on 02) 9747 4066 during the week. They can probably give you a baseline to start from. I've driven A series engines with little webers for years, the present one is a 28/30 DGV on an A12 in a Sunny wagon, I get 6 to 7 days running on one tank, with plenty of power & throttle response.


As for the loose gear lever, look at this Ebay ad.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1712478642 ... geName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Well Harry, that's a relief. But I was trying to arrange finances if necessary for myself. I second the rear sway bar, & a half leaf fitted to the top of the spring pack. I did the half leaf to a Sunny Van I had, to get rid of wheel hop, it definitely did the job. Now the hilarious (ha ha) comment. Left hand drive. That'll get the driver weight to the correct side for Mt Cotton. It'd give you a great view down the hill, & get you away from the crunchy side after the finish line. Strange place, Mt Cotton, more accidents after the finish line than the rest of the track. Or, 2 steering wheels, one either side.
I picked up some cheap ($70) rear gas shocks on Ebay last week. Hopefully this is the short cut & they have some more. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1814019668 ... eName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.
Could be what you want. Another no-name addition to the weapon.

Now, a question about that short rod/long rod L18. I've got some 86mm Z20e pistons with a raised pin height. does anyone know if I use an L20B crank in an L18 using L18 rods, will the Z20e piston work without too much machining. Would be good If it's close.

My thoughts are don't go to modern for the wheels, but fill the wheel arches, like some 13x7's with 205/60/13's. Lower it slightly, to help the tyres fill the guards. A rear windscreen wiper from a 200B wagon wouldn't hurt, my old Sunny wagon didn't have one & really needed it. Heated rear window the same. As for the engine, what do you have just laying around. A15, L16, L18, or even Z18, make use of what you have. If you haven't got anything, use the old A12. Hopefully, it's got front discs, but hopefully you can come up with something interesting. Cheers , Paul.