Had this happen to me as well. The rod between the master cylinder & the pedal is too long, so the brakes are dragging & overheating. Try to shorten this, some Master Cylinders have a thread & a lock nut. Or you could try swapping the rod from the old master cylinder. Or adjust the pedal stop so the pedal comes out a little. You could also slip some of those 'half moon' spacers between the master cylinder & the firewall. They are usually hard to find after putting them down, like pens or markers. If none of this is the case, it could be they have given you a brake drum master cylinder, which has a residual pressure valve, which will keep pressure in the front circuit.

I think the answer is something called Dyno Flash. People take the highest reading, not waiting for the dyno to stabilise. A friend had this happen with his open wheeler. The needle flashed to 250 HP then stabilized back to 200 HP, as he expected. An onlooker spread the word about the 250 HP figure, leading to a lot of bullshit & innuendo. Even the dyno operator agreed it only had 200 HP. Many a 500HP V8 has lost 100 HP on another dyno. Plus there's the old manufacturer's trick of not running any accessories or power sapping bits, for a bit of extra currency in their advertising.

The trx rims are only 5.5 inches wide, with an almost front wheel drive offset. I've had 195's on 6.5 inch rims on the front of my Sunny (195/60R14's) & I'm sure the extra 10 mm will fit, with the right offset. Can you try them on before buying them?

I've had this happen on a friends 1200 coupe & it was worn seals in the master cylinder itself, not the front brakes. Replace the master cylinder with a new one, 11/16ths or 13/16ths, depending on the size of the rear wheel cylinders. Match the size of the M/C to the size of the rear wheel cylinders. Make sure the master cylinder is to suit front discs, a 1200 ute usually has front drums & the front circuit has a residual pressure valve that'll cause the front brakes to drag & sometimes even lock up. So, for the 11/16ths, ask for a Datsun 1200 Coupe Master cylinder. For the 13/16th's try for an early 120Y Master Cylinder. You could also ask for a Sunny M/C, but you'd have to install the rod that goes to the pedal. Also, when bleeding the brakes, don't forget to bleed the master cylinder itself. just run a clear line from the bleed nipple back into the reservoir, then pump the pedal a few times til the air bubbles go away. Brakes are one of the things I don't skimp on, because not being able to stop the car is a nasty feeling, & you sometimes don't get a chance for that second pump on the pedal.

I just love it on the Hotwires, with the rollcage blending into the interior. The other 2 sets just shout 'something special here'. Even if you removed the turbo to get passed rego, it'd still be quick. I would love to have it, but I've got to get rid of at least 2 of my unfinished projects.

What you could try is to space the booster itself forward. I seem to remember the Australian build stanza's & 120Y's having an alloy spacer between the booster & the firewall. If you could find one, this would create room between the pedal & the back of the booster, enough to get the right distance & pedal pressure. As for the traffic stop, first words were "Good Brakes you've got there", However, I didn't say anything to him as I was doing 140k's when I first saw him & managed to knock off twenty K's before he spotted me. He had to reverse about 300 metres after he passed me, stopped by the side of the road. I was being chased by some arseholes at the time, but they turned off at the overpass the police car was hidden behind.

You'll be sorrrryyyyyy!!!!!!!

It looks to me that the Master cylinder is too long on the inside of the firewall. this means the pedal sits out too far, with no hope of adjusting it in. The good news is the 120Y struts you have work really well with an unassisted 11/16ths master cylinder from a 1200 coupe. Remove the booster, fit a new master cylinder & your problem should disappear. I've used this setup in a 1200 wagon to outbrake a Commodore Highway Patrol car from 120 k's. Almost ran into the back of me when he was pulling me over. You should also change the rear wheel cylinders to suit the 11/16ths size, or the rear shoes will wear out faster than they should.

Stuart Wilkins at SWR in Windsor is an agent for Cusco & should be able to answer your questions. Try the website www.swmotorsport.com.au or call on 02-4577-2400.

looks stripped out to me, very easy to do with over torqueing. I usually get a 6x1mm heli-coil thread repair kit, then run the tap down the hole & install the threaded section. This is a bit more complicated than the J-B Weld, but I have never had much success with that sort of stuff, it usually sticks to the bolt, not the body. I can just about manage to drill & tape a hole reasonably straight, not leaning over too far.