The cam I had in my 1000 hillclimb car (1298cc A12) went into a 1200 Rallycar after I sold it. The cam I have in the shed is the same grind, I used it in an A15 race engine, but replaced it with an Arthur Johnson 55/88 or something. The A12 made a lot of torque & ran out about 7000 rpm. I don't know who's grind it was, but I got it through somebody I trusted & I think it was a speedway grind. I should drag it out & see if I can see a number. I'' also see if I have a standard cam in there. How are you off for reground lifters?

This reminds me of the going's on back in the early eighties in an Australian magazine called 'Turbo'. They'd have some hotted up Holden (GM) or Ford with big money spent on it, new highest horsepower reading, then someone would bring out a 1600, or maybe a 200B or a Bluebird, all with an L20B & basic turbo & blow it away for a tenth of the money spent. It was brilliant. The L series engine was just a perfect basis for a turbo, it was all there already. Now Harry is reliving those days. Thanks Harry
for reminding me just how much car-nige you can cause with a small car & an engine that just wants boost.

TITLE: Sydney NSW Aus Want to Buy

ITEM:
A Series washer/shims with step to locate twin valve springs

CONDITION:
good condtion if possible

REASON FOR BUYING:
I need a full set of the washer/shims that sit in the head under the valve spring, with the step to give the inner spring it's proper tension. I'm fitting a 70 degree cam to an A15 & have the cam,springs & lifters already, but thought I had another set of these washers somewhere. naturally I can't "find" them. Maybe somebody has a set they don't need & are willing to sell.


LOCATION:
Greystanes Sydney NSW

CONTACT:
Paul
0439-246-659
02-9631-2043
rob1@tech2u.com.au

I should have one from a late style (mid-dizzy) engine. I'm also in Sydney. If you don't mind, what grind are you getting & from whom. I've recently got stuff from SWMotorsport & Camtech, so know where they are. Also. Ive got a couple of old cams of this type, I think one is a 54/86 & another that was in my 1000 hillclimb car with the 120Y style motor. let me know if this helps you out.

The original badges don't survive, none of my sunnys has ever had intact badges, probably due to the sun. I bought some replacements that I haven't used through somebody on Ebay. I always just bog the holes up & let them guess what sort of a car it is.

I think in NSW you can only register an A14 in a 1200 ute, due to their capacity to car weight formulas, though it appears some people can get sr20 turbos regstered. You could either get an A14 for the same capacity as the A12 with A14 crank & A15 pistons, or put A15 rank & pistons in an A14 block for 1488cc . My opinion is just put in an A14 with your GX head. I'd talk to an engineer about what he'll allow before buying anything. He might be quite happy to register with an A15. Go for the one thats easiest, is my advice. In any case, dont forget the brakes. A simple swap to late 120Y struts with the matching master cylinder will give you disks if you have drums on it & any number of conversions exist for bigger brakes from there. I've used the 120Y PBR struts in a 1200 wagon with an A14 & they never let me down.

The end of the axles are machined slightly so the top edge of the axle is always parallel to the spider gear, while the bottom sits up. I believe Jeff Hanson ( Rfast) has done this to the axles in his Sunny. The 'semi mythical' Stanza H190 housing had this done. I know of a local Stanza rally driver who threw away his rear end because he thought it was bent. Wish he'd thrown it my way. He now runs a Hi-lux diff thats been bent for rear camber.

I've had A15's that buzz no matter what you do. The only cure appears to be a harmonic balancer from a company here in Sydney called Ross Balancers. A friend of mine in Newcastle has done this & it cured his harmonics problem, which was due to a knife-edged crank. It could also be a broken valve spring, which will buzz & transmit noise through the car.

The diff & the brakes are important part of your build. Make them too small & it's a waste of time. The engine sounds like a serious bit of kit, too. So, you'll probably want at least 250mm ventilated front discs, if not bigger. You'll also want a strong diff that isn't too wide for the car. A H190 housing from an S12 Gazelle can be fitted, but these seem hard to find, due to the fact that the donor cars weren't that popular to start with. Fortuneately for you you're in a hotbed of datsun modifying,living in Melbourne, with lots of members able to help & to supply parts. I've only spoken in general terms, because it all depends on what you find. So, I recommend a set of S13 discs & calipers on your standard struts, with a coil over kit to adjust ride height & a H190 diff from a gazelle with an LSD if possible, with the alternative of a diff housing from a 720 ute modified to fit, or maybe a R31 Borg Warner.

Jeff, very interested in the alloy H190 4.6 . I assume the 29 spline means it'll fit into a Gazelle housing. please PM me a contact numbe & I'll give you a call.
Now, the important thing - New Car - what gives. Would love to hear all about it.