allan,i never got that far,but the idea was probably to get stanza stuff like the clutch pedal,master cylinder,etc & mount it in the pedal box.maybe 120y as there is an l series variant,& all the 120y's ive seen have provision to mount hyraulic's,you just have to cut the hole in the firewall,it even has two mounting studs in the right place.another trick i've done is to get the brake pedal from an automatic sunny,this makes it easier for the left foot to find the brake pedal during static linelockers(burnouts).what clutch pedal did you use,by the way.

the answer is no,you keep the same sway bar,but the 120y sway bar is bigger than 1200,so use one of them.the sunny sway bar won't fit as it is wider between the mounting points than the 120y or 1200.

olboy,maybe you needed spacers between the steering arm & the strut,to get the lower control arm away from parrallel to the ground,which will cause drastic camber changes on compression.also,did you mean that 180b (610) lower control arms are the 10 mm longer ones,not sunny(b310),because i know sunny arms are the same as 1200.so the recipe seems to be,to me at least,180b lower control arms,200b steering arms,adjustable castor rods,& a good wheel alignment.did anyone mention that 200b strut tops are also offset,and have the same size hole in them to fit the strut tops.this could also add some more neg,but at the top,not just at the bottom.i think i'll have to get the tape measure out & visit a wrecking yard.

hi allan,the front brakes i have in the car at the moment are early 200b struts,with adjustable spring perches,& some old monroe shocks & pedders springs,though i have the verada disc/commodore caliper'ed 180b struts sitting in a cupbord for when a friends a15 goes in.another question is what gearbox did you use,& how much cutting of the transmission tunnel was involved.when i did the sr20 into a sunny(which i never finished) the tunnel had to be cut,& a large square box welded in to cover the gear lever housing.this was with the standard s13 sr20 box.i still have the running gear,so want to know what other people have used that might be easier.as for getting the gazelle diff,a fellow by the name of gerard bauch from the ozdat site offered me one about 2 months ago,& he is in brisbane.his email is gbaulch@hn.ozemail.com.au.

my vote goes to the ford 9 incher as well.all the rotary drag cars here in australia seem to end up fitting one,so just do it now.theres also availability to think of,any large ford cruiser probably has one under it,so it should be easy to find one.hey,hot rod magazine & car craft used to have big ads for them,so i don't think you'll have a problem.(imho)((sorry,just had to say that))(((or is it in upper case to be even more h))).paul.ps dim my man,cool avatar,that dancing hobbs,way cool.

hiya allan,my names paul,by my sign-in you can probably guess i've got a sunny, sedan though.about that stanza diff,it won't take the amount of horsepower you're putting through it for very long.the way to go is to get an s12 gazelle diff with a h190 centre,these are about the same track as the stanza,are still a bolt in,have big axles,& you can get a large range of axle ratios.i've got a h190 out of a c22 van in mine,but mines only got an a14 with an a15 crank in it at the moment.you can still put the bluebird discs on the diff.

i think the problem with taiwanese guards is the molds they use wear quickly,so the first lot off are close,but each new pressing is further & further out.

sorry to say that they are different,with the sunny having a larger diameter spline.

i finally found the magazine with the engine management guide in it,it's zoom no 53 from express publications,back issues could be bought at www.expresspublications.com.au.this is not a complete guide,but is a good cross section.they list about 12 manufacturers,one being link.some of the others are haltech at www.haltech.com,hawk at ww.efihardware.com,fuelogic at www.screaminperformance.com(sounds serious that one),motec at www.motec.com.au,ems at enginemanagementsystem.com,& wolf at www.wolfems.com.au.hope this is useful to you.

rose jointing is a definite no-no in australia,were it is illegal to cut & weld suspension arms.though,funnily enough,a friend of mine once reverse sideswiped his 1200 at speed into a concrete wall,& because he had lock on at the time,the left front wheel hit the wall.this bent the crossmember,the chassis rail,the strut,the stub axle,the drag link & the castor arms,plus the steering arm & the ball joint suffered too.BUT,the welded,extended lower control arm was straight,& was used in the rebuild.another way to get neg on the front,particularly if going to bigger brakes,is to use 200b(810) steering arms.these are offset outwards(well at least they are in australia)& will give another 1 1/2 degrees of neg.you just need to change to datsun 180b(610) outer tie rod ends,which have the same thread as 1200 tie rods.