It might be best to talk to the officer at the Sydney Datsun Club about this. At the Sydney Datsun day there were a few cars on Historic plates that I couldn't understand. These were probably the Modified Historic Plates. If an engineers report is needed, they might have a preferred engineer. A friend has a Hillman Minx on Historic plates, he had to take the mags off it to qualify for the plate. I've got 2 Sunny's I know will need engineering when I reregister them, I'm hoping to get them on Modified Historic plates.

I think you should go for it. An L18 will overbore just as much as an A15, so 1900 cc is available. Having driven a Sunny with a big HP A15 & another with a stock L18 out of a ute, the difference in lap times wasn't that much, & if I'd read that L series book I'd have just grabbed a cam from one of the L20B's & put it in at timing mark 2 or something like that. The engine would have then revved to about 7000 rpm, instead of dropping dead at 5300. You might have to change your diff ratio, I went from a 4.6 to a 4.1 diff ratio, but the car would still pull around 190k's (120 mph) with the taller diff. If somebody you know has an L18 sitting around doing nothing, I suggest you borrow it for a season. Is there any reason you don't go straight to an L20B? There's little difference in weight & I know they fit into 1200's just as easily. So long story short, go for the L series.

If the Miata motor is reasonably stock, wouldn't a H150 from a B210 be strong enough. I seem to remember other American members using it in front of an L18 in a Coupe. As far as I know, they are the same width as the H145.

So Baz at Datsport can put liners in an L series block. Both Wilkins Bros here is Sydney claim not to have heard about this. What I'd like to try would be to get an L18W block, bore & liner it to 90.5 mm & get it close to 2 litres. I can get forged 90.5 mm pistons with the same pin size as the L series. Way way back the VW pistons were the ones to use in Speedway. Would like to try this with a KA24 head. Might shoot an email to Baz for some information.

I thought it was in 'more items from seller', though it could have been in 'You may be interested in'. You wouldn't have to fit a Z24 crank for this one. The block should have been sonic tested before overboring. I'd also heard a tale that some L18W blocks would go to 90.5 mm, which is a common VW piston size, & would get you close to 2 litres. This was before they released the L0B. There were plenty of over L series engines on Gumtree, some of them were even in NSW. There's also a gearbox claiming to be from either a Stanza or a R30, to me it looks like a standard Bluebird 5 speed.

I saw a 5mm oversize L20B on Gumtree the overday (90 mm pistons). It was in the Brisbane/Gold Coast area. It needed a hone & a rebuild. He also had a head for it he was selling separately. Gumtree has a few engines at the moment, maybe there's something close to you.

I saw that one, would only be good for spares - to me. Quite fixable to the right person. It's disappeared off Gumtree, so hopefully its gone to a good 'forever' home. I'd like something I didn't have to spend 12 months on rust repair before starting to modify. I found 3 pages called incomplete projects, none appeared to have a 120Y 2 door.

The only one I ever had was a 1200 ute tailshaft that had been modified this way that I bought from a wrecker. This was back in the 1990's, though. I can't even remember how much it cost. Sorry I can't help. With the borg warner one, I already had it in the shed, & the Bluebird shaft cost about $70. It had to be a series one 4 speed as they were the only ones with the one inch uni, all the other Bluebirds have a smaller one.

thanks Harry, I'll see if somebody can find it for me.

If you can find a 120Y Borg-Warner tailshaft, it's the same length as the Sunny one. The problem is the rear flange is wrong. The only rear flange that will work is from a Series 1 bluebird single piece tailshaft. These have the same 1 inch universal joints as the 120Y shaft. I've got one under my Sunny wagon. Hopefully these are a bit easier to find. The other alternative is to get the stock shaft machined out to take the 1 inch uni's. Why did they peen the bloody uni's in, that's what I want to Know!