I've always had success with the factory 70 degree cam grind. Wade cams ( now closed) had masters for this design. I've got one from Camtech here in Sydney, once also from Stewart Wilkins at SWMotorsport, though he gets Camtech to do the grind. Maybe one of the Melbourne members can suggest somebody closer to you.
They might know if somebody like Crow Cams can do something you can use.

I second the heli-coiling of the rocker shaft tower bolt holes. Some people confuse the head torque with the rocker torque, which is about 20 ft-lb.b Once the heli coiling is done, no more problems.

I know that one as the big slide. Sorry to say I think you wd'ed it. It sounds stupid, but I always practice the track in my mind before I get out there. If it's good enough for James Hunt, why can't I do it. I also tuck the map of the test in front of me on the dash, for last minute study. Best test I ever did was the Atom , which was just one long power slide.

You could use Sunny, or N12 Pulsar has intermittent wiper position, which could be a bonus. You just have to make up some intermediate wiring to go from the loom to the switch. You even get a hazard warning switch.

They are an interference fit on the hub. You need to press the discs off with a press. Any brake shop or general workshop should be able to do it for you, or maybe the maintainance guys at work, or the old guy up the street. Don't resort to this

The problem with the coupe is it's weight, & an auto really adds insult. You could turbo it, or with the standard crossmember go to an A14 or A15. As you seem to want to keep the A12, you can replace the gearbox with a 60L or 60A 5 speed, a 60L 4 speed, a Toyota 5 speed, or even try fitting a 4 speed auto from a Pintara. The diff can be upgraded to a H165 housing from a Stanza, or a H190 from a Gazelle, which needs some modifications to the mounts, or a Skyline Borg Warner diff, or even a HiLux diff. So I'd suggest turbo'ing the A12, leave the auto in it at the moment, & maybe leave the rear end alone. The H150 is pretty rugged & is worth a try. As for the brakes fitting, all you can do is try. I've got some VL calipers & U13 Pintara vented 253 mm discs I want to try on a strut, but it could be all wrong. A set of Stanza struts are the same length as the stock ones, 200B are shorter but have the larger spring perch, which can be removed & a smaller perch fitted, or threaded sleeves. Use a Stanza ball joint to get wider track & negative camber. They look good with big wheels, too. Don't forget to put some photos in the album.

Check the hose between the inlet manifold & the booster isn't leaking, or that the head gasket isn't blown. It could be a lack of vaccum more than anything. The clicking could be a ball joint or tie rod end that's worn. As the suspension is compressed, it can move, then it clicks when it returns to normal. I've had worn ball joints make a similar sound.

If the struts are 73-76, they have the same brakes as the 1200 coupe, the small square brake pads held in by 2 pins & a strange spring wire that goes between 2 holes in the pins. these are Japanese brakes. If it's from a 76-78 model sedan, it's Australian brakes from PBR, also used on early Mistubishis. They have a more conventionally styled pads, but these pads are held in a U shaped casting that goes over the top of the disc & bolts to the caliper. This bolt is an Allen bolt, too. To tell the difference without the caliper on it, there is a spacer that goes between the caliper & the strut on the PBR brakes. I've got a few PBR calipers hanging around if you need them, & probably a couple of the brackets & bolts.

Need to get 11/16ths rear wheel cylinders to balance front. You don't have to swap them, but you'll prematurely wear the rear brake shoes if you don't. Be careful if you want to run 12 inch rims, mags or otherwise, as the 120Y wheels have a larger centre hole in them. Most 13 inch or bigger mags will clear, but some 12 inch mags & the standard 12 inch steelies wont go on.

I had a 1200 wagon with an A14, twin SU's & extractors. Not even electronic ignition. Was a wonderfully torquey engine, until it burnt an exhaust valve. I rebuilt it with a 79mm bore, a 70 degree cam, factory efi, an aftermarket fuel computer & an electronic dizzy. It had less horsepower, torque & was a lazy engine, due to the fuel computer being too crude. Should have just serviced the head with new valves, got some 76.5 mm pistons & not worried about efi. would have given it the cam though, as I've used the 70 degree cam before with great success. Doing the same with an A15 would be just as good.