I’m not sure what happened. The previous owner sent me a video of the car n it ran fine. From that time to when it got to me(had it shipped) I don’t know what happened. Thinking maybe I was cranking it n trying to get it to fire with old gas or something...I don’t know. It’s been sitting for 9 years so it’s possible the valve could be stuck. I guess I’ll find out soon here. Had to get new pushrods on eBay(since one is bent). None of the parts stores have em anymore. So I gotta wait to they show up. In the mean time I’ll trying flushing the gas tank and checking out my drivers side front wheel. Looks like it might have a bad tie rod or ball joint or something

Ok.... btw I was actually about the brake/tail lamps... not the brake light on the dash. Sorry for the confusion. Also I looked at the build date on the car and it’s 10/78.

So back to the engine. Finally did a compression test. Cylinder 1&4 were reading 165 and 170. Cylinder 2&3 were reading 30 and 0. So we decided to start taking the engine apart. Took off the rocker cover and 2 pushrods were dislodged from the rockers...the intake rod on #2 and exhaust on # 3(which is bent too). Rocker arms were loose a bit. But is that enough to cause low compression or could there be something more wrong? We are thinking about replacing the pushrods and then see what happens

Haven’t seen the build date but title says it’s a 79. Will check it later after work. Just the connector is melted and corroded. Wires seem to be ok. The park lights n accessories only turn on when the car is running...turn signals don’t work at all. The brake light also stay on when the car is running. The headlights work whether it’s running or not. It’s a bit puzzling

Awesome thanks man! My car is a 1979 and yes it does have 2 green and one red wire. The melted connector has the 2 green wires connected to it. The other connector has the green wires and the red wire which is looped. So I'll have to use the fmx for just the green wires then?

I bought a compression tester this morning so later after work I’ll check it. I also ordered a new coil that isn’t here yet. Haven’t gotten around to messing with the fusible link since I’ve been trying to get the car running properly. But I did buy the Bussmann fmx fuse thing.

@ddgonzal how to i go about wiring up the fmx fuse to the car? I’m a total novice when it comes to electrical stuff

Turns out the plug wires were in the right order and the car is still misfiring. Im thinking maybe the head gasket is torn between #2 and #3 cylinders.Its crazy that it fires up and idles so good. I know its not that hard to change the head gasket but my car is a Cali spec and has all that smog crap on it. Its a little intimidating.

Thats what I'm thinking because the carb seems to be ok. I already changed out all the basic ignition parts for new ones so it should be running smooth. I will check those again tomorrow. Here’s a video link below of the car running today

https://youtu.be/3ABrctm0VBQ

I just hope it's not a blown headgasket

Ok I got the choke sorted and it starts up n idles no problem. But it’s still misfiring. While it was idling I tried pulling off the plug wires and it died when I pulled the number 1 and 4 wires. Also where we start it up from cold it idles super high.,,like at about 2000rpm(no tach so just a guess). I’m trying to get a compression tester so I can check it. Could it be the carburetor causing that or maybe the egr? I’m stumped

Here are pics of the carb n fusible link

It sounds like it’s running smooth in the video but it’s actually misfiring. It runs like when u have 2 plug wires crossed...that’s the best way I can describe it...I just looked at a pic i took of the carb n the choke is wide open. How do I fix that? I’m assuming that will cause it to run rough