Evan, on this site there is great info on this subject. Go to Tech Section/ Engine / A type cylinder heads. Photos of heads, specs, codes etc.

Respectfully, operating the water pump via a belt is not correct. UNIVERSAL PUMPS . The manufacturers I have contacted will advise me what universal pump will be best for me when I decide what radiator I will be using. My car will be raced for the most part.

Further you reduce the drag on the engine when you convert to the electric water pump. So you do gain HP. The altenator works no less or no more now that a electric pump is installed. So it is all gain


I have thought of the underdrive pulley for the altenator.

Nothing ventured .............Nothing gained ....watch .........I'll convert to the electric pump and overheat. LOL

PS: Happy Holidays to everyone.

What brand carbs do you have installed?

If you go to Summit racing you will see there are different types of electric water pumps. They pump from 20 to 55 gallons per minute.

Once you convert to an electric pump, that draws 6 amps, you decrease the mechanical load on the engine. The altenator does not have to work any harder to create energy then it did before. What happens is less drag on the engine = HP

As to using a oil cooler and custom radiator. That is the way to go. Your racing your car and providing proper cooling to both liquids very important to your engine "oil and water". I know that I am going with the radiator you mentioned. Im already am running a oil cooler from Tomei and the Oberg tattle tail. Im glad to hear it works. As you can see by my pics my radiator is very small. (webbs1200)

Some of the reasons not to use the pump make no sense to me, but the bottom line is that everyone has some very valid points in regards to this subject.

I would say the key to the origanal poster would be find a way to make way for the radiator to receive the proper air flow it needs.

I wonder about replacing the mechanical water pump with an electric water pump. This will greatly increase water flow. Plus now you gain HP.

Im on the same page with rgrinder. If yall want to install used head bolts more power to ya.

No matter what torque wrench you use it wont help hold a used, stressed bolt.

I myself am using studs and nuts from Tomei.

I also respect everyones opion.


P.T.T.P.

1. GX Cam:

You do not need special rockers for a GX cam. Although I have seen some very nice roller rockers. If the lift exceeds 7mm you need to concern yourself with valve spring height, retainers, and pushrods.

From Nismo:

When installing any new A-series camshaft new lifters must be used. The GX camshaft can use any A-series lifter.

Due to increased valve lift, the race cams can only be used with the oversize cam lifter (13231-78201) which has a 33% larger surface area. The lightweight lifter (13231-M0820) weighs 24 grams less than the OE unit.


Block:

If your motor is knocking that bad then you dont need to concern yourself with bearings, you probably need the crank ground or a new one and the machine shop will mic the crank and install the proper bearings.

Have machine shop check both the block and the head surfaces where they meet for trueness. (Not warped)
This is paramount.

Hot tank the block. Hone or bore cylinders, New pistons or rings, Rod and Cam bearings. . Freeze out plugs. Obviously a new crank and crank bearings

Head:

The condition of your head will tell you what must be done to it. ie valve guides, seals, reseat valves, porting etc. With a high performance cam I would have damper springs installed.
(spring within a spring)

The items I have mentioned are standard for a machine shop. It all depends on haw far you want to go with the motor$$$$$$$. For more detailed work and information the gentleman listed below is very knowledgable and does great work.

Les Classic Datsun Motorsports.
760-940-6365.

Good luck



P.T.T.P.

You can use the shaft portion from any drive line and have the ends from your old drive shaft welded on then balanced. Alot of speed shops in the USA do this with aluminum shafts.

Of course make sure the length and diameter of the shaft are correct.

Good Luck.

go to NISMO. Skip going to the junk yard, you should never reuse headbolts.

Bottom end rebuilt 3 years ago.......Top end two years ago. How many hard driven miles are on engine since then.

Think long ...... think wrong.