I have used Falken Azenis, Bridgestone 510S (soft), Hoosier something or others, and Hankook Z2000S which is my current tyre.

the picture in that article is of the old Azenis. These are a very good road tyre, but not very good on the track. Compound is too hard, but certainly a step up from normal road tyres and provide much better feel and feedback because of their superior construction. Just don't expect to make dramatic improvements in your lap times, or keep up with the guys on proper DOT race tyres. They are a good choice if you only have 1 set of wheels and you drive the car everyday and only do an event every once in a while.

There is a new version of the Azenis released recently that is a soft compound DOT race tyre in the style of the Yoko A032R / Bridgestone 520S / Toyo Proxes etc. But they look nothing like the old ones pictured. These are the kind of things to get if you are serious about motorsport, and do not need to use them on the road (although they are DOT legal, you will soon see your expensive race tyres dissapear if you drive the car on the road - what a waste)

where the hell did they get those prices from?!!!

i don't know what diametre the Stanza bar is, but I doubt they will fit. I think it will be too wide. If you've got the car, get a tape measure out... (120Y bar is 20mm)

Hi Marc. I don't think anyone is laughing, I think it's a great little car! Looks tough, but I actually preffered the widened steelies! I've built a draw through turbo A14 before, and I definitely think 200bhp is achievable. wether the gearbox holds together is another story!
Harry.

300lb springs are on the heavier side of what most imp prod cars run, and will be a bit much for the street if it is a dual purpose car like you say.

what brand shock?

non wearing bearings? that's quite a breakthrough!

how do they widen the caliper? I'd be a little wary of that - especially from a legal perspective. Check with an engineer before you hand over any money on those brakes. It might be fine (depending on exactly what he does), but I've never heard of anyone widening calipers before, and brakes are not something to take chances on.

welcome to the club

I think the idea is to increase the braking power/performance in correspondance with the increased engine power/performance. The principle behind Engineering vehicles for road use is to ensure they are still safe, 'balanced' vehicles.

count yourselves lucky they still let us register standard 1200s with those brakes! The discs in particular are absolutely woeful! They fade before you complete one emergency stop from 100kph (60mph)

you have other options MadTimo. You could:
a) fit the A12 head to suit you manifold. with a single sidedraught carb there would be little loss in performance. different story if you are planning to use the same manifold when it's turboed though
b) if you want to keep the oval port head, just cut and shut your sidedraught manifold and the standard A15 manifold. Choose the point where they would best align, cut it and get it TIGed together (bolted to a head of course) and 'port match' the two halves internally.

I did this a few years ago with a twin SU manifold. I found the best place to cut the standard manifold was just behind where the manifold separater is for the ports. Any further upstream and the manifold is a bit too small and restrictive.

well it's good to hear the rotary is not your favourite!

so what was it? - a classic car show, sprint event or what?

was everyone as impressed as you thought they'd be?

OK mate, I'll give you the beneifit of the doubt, but I've never seen a burnout contest at any historic event I've been to.

all bits you can get secondhand. but the standard T25 will do the job better than you think. add a cheap front mount intercooler, and the only expensive bit is the ECU, but you can pick them up 2nd hand if you keep an eye out. Sure you still only have a secondhand motor, but it will probably last longer than your brand new expensive bridgeport motor anyway

priced a WELL BUILT bridgeport 12A? And that's on top of the labour intensive one-off fabrication work to get the rotary in there in the first place.

I'd recommend a custom BIG MOTHA fuel tank as well, otherwise you'll have a range of about 150km with the rotary engine