I might be letting nostalgia get the better of me though. It has been 15yrs since I've seen the 120Y... But it was a cool car with the twin carbed FJ20. Went pretty well back then.

I think it's very good value! I got more for both my previous couple of 120Ys, and Graeme's green one is faster than my turbo L20 120Y was. If it wasn't all the way over in Tasmania, I'd have it myself by now rather than posting it up here for everyone to see lol

It's a very good starting point if you want to do track days and hillclimbs and stuff like that. just hop in and drive it. If you want to go circuit racing in a particular class, you might need to change little things here and there to make sure it fits the rules. If you want a road going track car, you'll have to re-fit some of the stuff that's been removed/changed to make it lighter. But that's going to be alot easier, cheaper and less work than building something like this yourself.

Graeme used to live up here in Brisbane and was a long time competitor at hillclimbs and stuff in both this and his wild shortened P76. Not many photos about as back then digital cameras were expensive and the www was a very different place!


Always wondered where he dissapeared to...

Graeme Adair's FJ20 twin carbed 120Y coupe race car for sale https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/deloraine/cars-vans-utes/race-car-datsun-120y-very-qick-club-racer/1162531308
I used to race against it at Mt Cotton in my old L18 1200 coupe ~15yrs ago. Cool car.
He also had an awesome shortened Leyland P76 V8 race car. I guess he liked doing things differently!

That's a SII Bluebird L20B.

GL-4 only for the gearbox. Yes it can be hard to find.

GL-5 that claims to be compatible with brass or yellow metals will still cause excessive wear to the synchros. They claim compatibility because it's not corrosive to those metals so can be used with brass components. That is true in itself, but if those brass components are synchros they will still wear excessively due to the way the EP GL-5 oil works. Don't use any GL-5 in the gearbox. GL-5 is designed for use with steel gears only.

Use GL-5 for the diff.

about 20mm forward is what you want. It's definitely worthwhile. They drive so much better with the extra castor, particularly if you've got wide rubber. You may need to trim the front lower corners of the guards, depending on what wheels and tyres you run.

120Y's have the front castor rod eye mount on a separate bolt-on bracket. The easiest and best way to increase castor is to move that bracket further forward. This just involves drilling 4 new holes in each bracket and cutting the front edge off. Just another way 120Ys are better than 1200s :P haha

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just be aware the 1000 is a very different chassis to a 1200. Transverse leaf spring front end with double wishbones. Can certainly be made to work - there was an extremely quick 1000 coupe sport sedan up here years ago that retained the factory front end with a few torana bits and rx7 brakes. But it may be easier to make a 1200 /120Y/Sunny work than the 1000.

the 0-1600cc class isn't as big as it used to be. But if that's what you want to build it for, the SR16 would be the go. Heaps of aftermarket support and knowledge. And the hottest SR16 had almost 200bhp from the factory!

A048 are superseded. Current Yokohama is A050 - that's what Improved Production has been using over here for the past few years. The A048 wasn't a great tyre - slow and loses even more performance with heat cycles. A050 on the other hand is regarded as the fastest semi available, along with Hankook Z221s.

R888 is also not a great tyre IMO. The wear well, but had no grip for a semi slick.

I'm currently using Nankang AR-1 semis on both my cars - twin turbo Soarer and AE111 Levin BZR. On the Soarer which I've owned for years I've had a few different semis now:
Nitto NT01. 245/40 R18. Lakeside 1:01.3
Hankook Z221. 235/40 R18. Lakeside 59.8
Nankangs AR1. 265/35 R18. Lakeside 1:00.2

So as you can see it's not a straight comparison using the same sizes, but the car was unchanged so it gives you an idea of how they compare. My Impressions:

Nitto are made by Toyo in the same factory in Japan, and have the same construction and compound as R888. They were unimpressive. lacked lateral grip and drive. They were only 0.7sec faster than normal road tyres! Same kind of performance I got from the R888 I used on a 180SX years ago. But they were cheap. That's why I tried them, combined with some people swearing they were better/faster than R888 - which they weren't.

Hankook Soft compound Z221 were awesome! So much grip it was ridiculous. But only lasted 5 track days so not great value for money, but if the ultimate goal is going fast, these are awesome. Hankook Z221 and Yokohama A050 are generally regarded as the fastest semis currently available. When I say they only lasted 5 track days, they still have plenty of tread, just lost grip. They didn't taper off - they stayed rocket-ship fast up until the day they gave up the ghost and went over 1.5sec a lap slower.

The Nankangs have good grip, good wear, and great prices. They're available in 185/60 R13 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nankang-AR-1-185-60R13-80V-80-TL-Tyres.
When I got the Levin, I went straight for the Nankangs. If you can get them in NZ, give them a go. They're not widely available in Aus...

4AGE 20v Blacktop 164hp@7800rpm :)