hehe, I've got a console with the factory clock. even works perfectly!

It's no longer in my coupe of course, but safely tucked away in the shed. somewhere...

all australian coupes had tach dashboards. some later utes had the same style dash with a clock instead of the tach.

Quote: suddenly my sedan is on the market!

I wouldn't pay more than $3000 for a sedan with a stock A15. And it would want to be pretty bloody good for that money. It doesn't really sound like anything particularly special. Has nice suspension by the sound of it, but the rest of it is all pretty cheap, easy, common stuff. All A14 and A15 have oval port heads standard. And what's a '1200 late model diff'?

plenty of circuit race cars over here use lockers. With good race rubber and good suspension geometry the understeer tendancies induced by the locked centre can be completely eliminated. Those settings are not really practical for the street though.

But then again, lockers aren't really practical either, as others have said. Ok if you just drive it weekends, but if it is your daily transport, think twice before doing it. You will have trouble with axles and centres in a street car, especially if you ever put any weight in the car (like passengers). U-turns, parking etc will put huge stresses on the axles.

the diff will hop around in low speed, tight corners, tyres will squeal and attract unwanted attention, and it will probably catch you out in the wet - which will be at least embarrasing, and probably costly. Plus it's illegal in Qld, and I suspect in most other parts of Aus.

anyway, go for a ride with him, and see for yourself.

you could try the old bannana skin trick - always wanted to see if that actually works...

that would be correct if the piston is at zero deck height at TDC. Most motors do not acheive that zero height at TDC, so you have to include any residual volume (be it a positive or negative value) in the cylinder at TDC to both sides of the equation to get an accurate static CR figure.

when you were cc-ing things with that 'blue liquid' did you seal any openings with a smear of grease or anything?

it's an idle solenoid. Just needs 12v when the ignition is on. easy

bmx. you make enough noise as it is

leaf spring rear ends allow huge ranges of lateral, fore-aft movement, and torsional movements. Any control arm you can fit under class rules is a very good idea IMHO.

I fitted brand new urethane bushes to the spring eyes and can still move the leafs springs laterally by hand to fit the marginally wider mounts on the Corolla diff housing.

I have a locked diff. And it is really scarry to see what happens if you stop the car during a walking pace turn on a grippy surface like concrete or bitumen. Doesn't even have to be a sharp turn. Looks like you must have broken a main leaf or U shackles (or something major anyway), but it's simply wind-up.

I think you guys kinda over-reacted. what teretonga said does not have a nasty or inflamatory tone. Sure he could have handled it better. But he does have a point - many of those topics weren't relevant, and certainly didn't belong in the main forum (try the Off-Topic forum maybe 1200Ute).But at the end of the day it's not that big a deal. Certainly that doesn't warrant being blocked from the place. Especially not as a first course of action.

I gotta say this though -
1200Ute you did yourself no favours in here with that kind of reponse. not in my opinion anyway.

mikali I agree with this much...Quote:You would do well to show a little restraint as well. And that certainly applies to 1200Ute. As I said, I don't think 1200Ute should be blocked for posting all those messages; but I wouldn't complain if he was blocked after what he has just done. The rest of what you said, mikali, was inflamatory and abusive, and I don't think it has any place here. I certainly don't want to see this kind of treatment of any of the 1200 club members. Was teretonga justified in what he asked for - probably not, but he certainly didn't deserve the abuse just dished out to him.
That applies equally to both of you. And it's the kind of thing that will turn people off this place. Certainly left a bad taste in my mouth.

no, the L18 conversion is not as simple in the 1200. trust me! Alot of fabrication work required to crossmember, engine mounts, etc.

If it's just a car to learn in, you probably want to keep it cheap and simple, but with enough power to learn about car control.

So if it was me, I'd rebuild the A12, throw in a 30/70ish regrind cam, and a downdraught Weber, mill .030 or .040" off the head to bump the compression up a bit. Then a cheap 1.75 sports exhaust, maybe a 2nd hand set of extracters if you can find some. I wouldn't bother porting the head - with such a mild engine, there won't be any real benefit. Same goes for getting an A14 oval port head - if anything, you'd probably loose a bit of power on this engine, because it will reduce the velocity of the inlet charge which gives better cylinder fill. Besides, it's money you don't need to spend.

you could drop in an A14, but that will cost as much as the parts to rebuild the A12. And you'd probably want to rebuild that before throwing it in anyway, and this is where it all begins to get out of control... But I guess if you are planning on an A14 for the coupe you are building up, then it's not money wasted. But in NZ, you can throw in just about any engine you want in a rally car hey?