Thought I should grab a quick vid of them running just before I removed the engine:
https://www.youtube.com/v/Ncxwwcf6Q8o

A12T twin carb set. Oval port manifold. Suit A14/A15.

I bought them incomplete with the carbs missing throttle plates, throttle shaft, linkage and a float. I fitted a pair of L18 Hitachis with the bigger L series insulator blocks and the L series heat shield, which had to be cut and overlapped to fit on the A series manifold due to the carbs being closer together on the Aseries. I swapped the A12T needles into the L series carbs. Shortened the L series linkage to suit and fitted a throttle cable pull arm to the linkage. Brazed up one of the brass floats and tested OK.
IMS system has been deleted. I made some alloy cover plates to blank off the IMS ports.
Also liked the chokes to they work off one choke cable.

I fitted them to the motor and they run. Needles and seats work. Floats float. No fuel leaks. They need tuning and balancing - they do not run well at all yet - I don't have a carb balancer and haven't had time to mess around with them so selling them as-is with a bunch of spares - the old A12T carb bodies and fuel bowls, and left over parts from the L series carbs I used - pistons, needles and dampers etc

$300

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A14 out of my 120Y coupe for sale. Very good engine. No smoke or leaks. Removed from car today.
H89 head. Water galleries to intake manifold plugged.
Long motor including flywheel, clutch, starter, alternator, water pump, fan.
No intake manifold or carbs. New manifold gasket. $650

Harry

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Nankang are about your best bet imo. I have Nankang RX-615 tyres on my 120Y and they're very good.
If you have a 1200 and want the same diameter as the original 155SR12, 185/60x13 are the go, and they're a perfect fit for 13x6 wheels. About $90 a tyre.
205/60x13s are bigger in diameter as well as width, and are pretty much guaranteed to rub on a 1200. Plus they're a better fit on 7" wheels if you ask me.

Thanks dd. Just had a read through the tech wiki. As you say, the manifold and carbs seem to match the "A12T for B210 (1974-1975) - Extra Large Oval Ports" . I've fitted the identical (bar needle and possibly spring?) L series carbs now.
Also learnt about IMS - never actually knew what that stuff was. People always refer to them as pollution carbs. Sounds like it might be worth keeping rather than blanking off... hmmm

Yeah, ram tubes definitely help. Unfortunately they rip you off for SU ram tubes - a single SU ram tube costs as much as a pair of them for a weber. I'll get these A14 Hitachis up and running right so I can sell them as a going concern. I'll probably make a filter setup for them. I like tinkering around with stuff like that.

Picked up the Stanza last night. Pretty happy with that deal. I might keep an eye out for a cheap B310 Sunny to swap the rest of the driveline into. I have a lead on cheap to free L20 as well. I could just about put an l series Sunny together with the parts I'll have left over!

Had a look at a heavily worked L20 this morning, but after having a think about it while playing with the A series carbs and doing some sums, I've decided it makes more sense to stick to a mild L16 as per the original plan, and just make it a nice cruiser. I don't want this one to become a track car.

So I ended up buying a rear-ended and rusty Stanza instead. I'll use the L16, 5spd, engine and gearbox mounts, clutch master, slave and lines, radiator hoses and the alloy radiator - if it will fit... The rest I'll part out.
Motor and box have apparently been rebuilt a few years ago - who knows, but there was no smoke or anything, so I can whack it in and worry about mods later. Got to arrange a car trailer to pick it up tomorrow night.

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removed the 32/36 and Rowland manifold and boxed them up to send to the new owners. So I started swapping the L series Hitachis on this arvo. I figure I may as well get them up and running before doing the L series conversion. They'll be worth some money that way, and be easier to sell than a bunch of parts...
The A series manifold has the carbs 15mm closer together, so a quick cut and shut on the linkage and adding a cable pull wheel or lever will do it. I cut the heat shield down the middle and overlapped it. It clears the extractors, so that's all good. I'll rivet that together to avoid rattles. Also going to delete the pollution gear. I decided to use the L series 16mm bakelite spacers instead of the 4mm A series ones that came with the manifold. And I'll probably make up some air filters from alloy sheet - reckon they'll be better and cheaper than off the shelf ones.

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I suppose if you are going blow-through turbo, 350 Holleys make sense due to off the shelf parts made for handing boost, but I find it hard to believe it's more common to find a 350 on an A series than a 180...

ever tried a draw-through turbo setup jmac?

Going back several years, Datsonovic and Yatala Head Works have had very good power from turbo A series too.
EDIT: oh, and Finn!