Each to their own I guess

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ricphoto/120y.html

I contacted them and this is the reply

Neil, I'll give you the prices here- Dry Sump oil pan- $365, dry sump pump 3 stage- $ 695, drive pulleys and belt- $110,
remote filter adaptor-$78, Dry sump tank, 1.5 gallon $338 You will need to make a plate to mount the pump to your block and a mandrel to drive off the crankshaft. Thanks, Gary

This is all in U.S $ so for us Aussies double it and add freight. Duty too if you get caught, which is more likely now with them checking so much stuff that comes into Oz now.

I just want the pan. I can source the pump and everything else locally. I have a very good though not cheap engineer locally who makes dry sump pumps. I know he does good work.....after all he pilots a Nitrobike to 6 second passes which he builds most of himself (Jay Upton)

I took my old dizzy to a local guru with 2 other old units from different vehicles and said "make me one for an A series"
He said it would be too hard so he went down the back.....took one of an A series that already had electronic......apparently they came out on leter ones.....and reco'd it for me for the staggering price of $0.
Not a bad deal if I say so myself.

I know the motor was an import one they had shipped in from Japan but I don't know what it was off.

I still haven't used the dizzy but when I get the car running (hopefully soon) I will be using it.

34 a couple of months ago

which is one year older than my 2 coupes and one year younger than my sedan

I'm yet to get a B6 head to try.
Apparently the bolt hoses for the head bolts are spot on but the rest I don't know yet.
One I find a donor B6 I'll let you all know.

As far as the bottom end is concerned. Ever heard of anyone throwing a rod or breaking a crank ????
I haven't.

If your topping up fluid then your losing it somewhere.
Possibly into the booster
Its also possible your adjustment is out of whack thats why you can pump it up then it frops. As things pump up the shoes move out and contact. When you release it the springs pull them back and your pedal drops.
Sounds like your booster is working fine. Might be time for a reco master cylinder.

Clamp off the rear flex line then try your tests again. If the pedal stays firm and hard then look at the rear adjustment. If its still the same check caliper operation and master cylinder.
If you can clamp both fronts then try this too and if its firm even when running the master is O.K.

Oh yeah all brake fluids are compatable except silicone. All glycol based fluids can be mixed if need be. Though you should get a syringe and suck it out of the resi and flush new fluid thru the whole system.

I had the same issue with my engine builder.
Luckily for me I never started the enigine.
I was dubious so I had another builder strip and check everything. I had 1 thou clearance between valves and piston. I also had to have the block notched for inlet valve clearance as mine are 38mm.

This is not mine and I'm not selling anything.
but if your real quick and your still running round port head this would be worth picking up

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1924549115

I start my hols next week. I only have 2 weeks off and I'm pulling up carpet and painting my house......how sick am I ??

I'm sure you didn't mean to post that and insult my baby