why isn't there a high stall torque converter and shift kit available for the 1200 auto box? and why is the stupid vacuum modulator so close to the exhaust? should have a pipe running over to the other side of the box, and why do the stupid hi-tech extractors have bugger all clearnace to the idler arm? rant mode over

yep it will still run ok but I would pull it out and put it back in one tooth advanced, only a 5 minute job
My hilux has a 229 cubic inch chevy V6 in it and I checked the ignition soon after I bought it and found it was 30 degrees retarded! and it was 2 teeth out and still managed to run ok just a bit sluggish but compared to an old diesel it still had twice as much power!

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I never really thought about that consequence of overheating good point I hope your valve springs are going to be ok, it is one extra job that would pi$$ me off way too much if I had an overheating problem

You can get away with some steel flat bar 3 or 5mm thick just line the engine up in the bay supported by the lifting tackle with the gearbox bolted to the engine and the gearbox crossmember bolted to the car, then it's just a matter of lining up where you want the engine to sit, measure the distance between the engine mounts and crossmember points where the engine used to sit and cut a piece of flat bar then drill holes where you need to attatch the engine mount to and where you need to bolt the flat bar to the crossmember.
I have a bad temper when working on cars actually I just have a bad temper all the time and I still manage to make the datto work, I even managed to successfully install the head gasket upside down causing coolant to flow out of the back of the head between the block and head so don't wory about working on the car if I can do it a monkee with a hammer and a roll of duct tape could probably do a better job

I hope so!
reason for sale is for tax purposes, capital gains tax due this year so have to make some sacrifices, sad sale for me so hoping for a quick exchange of ownership

luckily enough I managed to buy the car with the respray already done, the bloke I bought it off said it cost him $2800.
Your not wrong about it costing me nearly double the asking price! it's amazing how fast everything adds up when your building up a car

I am selling my 1200 sedan it has been resprayed in canary yellow, has a Kenwood CD player, Sony X-Plod 6"x9"s in the back and Sony X-Plod 8" splits in the front, Tenzo race seats in the front, tacho with shift light, 770cca Battery relocated to boot in sealed box, custom made floor mats, new carpet, autotechnica steering wheel, stanza SSS mags with near new tyres, window tint, new brakes, narva headlamps, new chrome strips on window sills and windscreen suround, new aerial, new grill, a full nolathane bush replacement kit (not installed just in a bag in the boot) 120Y swaybar, monroe GT gas shocks, 12" electric thermo fan, Hi-Tech 4-1 extractors, 2 1/2" straight through exhaust, freshly rebuilt A15 bottom end, new old stock race ported oval intake head, competition valve springs, linished valves, ported intake manifold, weber 38/38 DGAR chokeless carburettor, crow cams custom ground camshaft, datrats electronic distributor, Bosche HEC 715 coil, new timing gears and chain.
I can not seem to upload pics but PM me with an email addy and I will send pics to all who are keen
Bunbury W.A. $5000 o.n.o.

on the quokka site today:

datsun 1200 ute 1974, just passed pits, recond motor, new struts & rear shockies, new inners & outers, ball joints, mags, c/w spare ute with H165 diff, 1500 motor, 2 g/boxes, 85 model dash with steering column & asstd parts $4700 ono. Orla. 0405-962-713
I see there are a few parts as accessories maybe you can talk him into letting the diff go seperately?

from the quokka site today:

DATSUN 1200, auto, complete shell with spares, little rust $300. Pth. after 4pm 0415-061-322

maybe it is the extractors hitting on the idler arm? mine does this sometimes while deccelerating while going around a right bend