sr20 is not going to fit well not without major $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and time. Think I might have to go with a ca16det or otherwise a 4age toyota motor as I am running out of options to keep weight and size down. Could possibly go L16 I guess but not sure how hard it is to get a block. what cars did these engines come out of anything locally. More news on my shed they finally put down the two pack epoxy so I will be able to move in and start strippping the 1000's I have in 2 weekends time. I can't wait to get reall measurements in the engine bay and transmission tunnel etc. Will post all the dimensions for future info when I do it.

my first choice was a fiat twin cam motor with a 16v head but to find one of those heads is near impossible let alone buy one that if in good condition. I originally restored a fiat 124 BC sport and put the 2L Fiat/lancia block in it with the 1600 heads with all the works and acheived a 13.2 quarter mile aspirated. So I know what these babies are possible of, if only I could get one, cheapest prcie for a 16v head I have seen was $2500 euros with a set damaged cams. Hopefully I will find a great relaible motor to put into the car shortly, but as D say's I want a great power to weight and still have it corner really well.

I desperatly want a badge but geez I could get one cnced from stainless almost for that price.

had a look this morning and no badges someone has taken them already. will let you know if one comes up in my box of parts

I think I have that badge in the spare parts coupe sedan somewhere will have a look tomorrow for you guy's

My opinion would be that the wheel bearing might nedd doing, sometime you get a similar sound to the metal brake squeel if all the grease has leaked out od been used in the wheel bearing.

if the brake peadl is pulsing it hase to either be a collapsed wheel bearing or warped disks as there is nothinf else which will make your brake pedal move like that, well that I am aware of anyway

yep,

those look like similar to what was on the car, they were a real dull yellow colour type glass.

hmm wonder why my sedan has that horrible light tan trim in it if it wasn't an option. don't really care as I am using the car only to make the suspension etc fit before attacking to fastback.

my car is in brisbane and is believed to be a brisbane car all it's life. It has the holes in the seat for the headrests but the headrests are gone. I would say someone has thrown them out during it's life. I am putting race seats in anyway so doesn't bother me. my seats need a full retrim anyway as the vynil is gone.

I still have the original radio in mine with the speaker box which I am going to stick back in the car. I have a friend who reckons he will convert it internally for me to a fm tuner but keep the original look. Bet there is not many factory radios still around.

my 2 door sedan also had headrests and the seats were in that horrible brown colour but the person I bought the car off kept them.
the 2 door sedan had some nissan motor sport parts on it as well which he kept. I really wanted the factory spot lights he pinched off it.

the sedan has been pretty much stripped but I do have boxes of stuff in the car I haven't looked through yet, there might be some good stuff yet to turn up.

also as a note I have noticed that the headrest seats have horzontal stiching across them and the non headrest don't. I am thinking it might of been a special interior upgrade option.

That is right vvt is variable timing and it only does it on the one cam intake from memory.
vvl actually uses two cam profiles and has 3 stages as such generally
1. low rpm cam profile on both intake and exhaust
2. high rpm intake cam and low rpm exhaust cam
3. high rpm intake and high rpm exhaust cam.

I have been told that vvl is actually alot stronger and better than vtec.

I have also heard some people swapping the
2. stage to be low rpm intake cam and high rpm exhausr cam to help the turbo spool quicker when converting the neo vvl motors to turbo.

The vvt motore came in the s14 onwards and were generally the black head motors.

s13 were red top motors non vvt

blue top motors and some black top motors are vvl but they all have neo badging on the heads.

thanks for all comments guy's. MY biggest problem is that I definetly want to keep to a nissan motor and it has to be 1.6L maximum for it to be turbocharged, yes I can do a CA16det and it has been on top of the list for a while but I would much rather put a motor in that I can stroke to get more cubes and that is why the SR16 is a great choice. I am going to run autronic most likely so distributers etc are not that much of a problem and I can run a crank angle sensor if I need to it's just working out how much junk I have to deal with behind the head for the dizzy. I know I could get rid of the variable timing by putting custom cams into it so they are locked at a single setting, this has been done or race cars but they are not to good at low revs but the supercharge may help that problem will need to look into it. the other option I thought of was to put a rb20de neo motor into it and see if I could stroke it and bore it to get the litres and horsepower up but don't know anything about them and assume the motor would be a lot heavier and miles to long. I think I might need to take a holiday soon to New zealand so I can have a good look at the SR16 motors in person to see if it is achievable. Don't care if it's difficult cause then there is more chance of someone copying my project

I also am aware of the sr20 site and have got a lot of information from it. once again thanks for your comments