I am assuming I will need to go to a custom sump and a rear wheel drive oil pump unless I go dry sump which could be a possiblity as they are getting very cheap these days. I am not worried about manifolds as they will all be custom to make the charger and turbo sysyem work. Really am just worried about that damn little dizzy on the back of the head as the problem. I know the sr15ve is the same size as he sr20 except for the crank and rods, that is why I am so keen to put one in cause I can legally go to 2 or even 2.4L stroker as I am using a 1.6 Litre block. was originally going to go ca16 but you can't increase the bore that much with the block and they are getting harder to get parts for.

Hi guy's,

Looks like my garage concrete floor is going to get fixed and epoxyed next week which means I will be stripping the 2 x 1000's very soon to start my project

I have decided to put a sr16ve into it most likely as I can only go 1.6L turbo and the sr16ve motor has a much stronger top end than the sr20's as they are newer technology etc.

What I need to know though before I buy a sr16 is some dimensions of the motor. Is there anyone in brisbane that had a sr16ve or sr20ve motor in a car I can measure up? I particually need the dimension of the distributer cap etc to see if I can fit the motor or whether I need to cut a huge hole in the firewall as I am not sure department of transport will be to happy with me if I have to make a huge square section for the distributer.

As for what I am going to do to my 1000 fastback well here is a small list:-

1. new disks on front set 15mm further out so I can put 40 offset rims on which there are heaps of different mags as opposed to a current choice of about three.

2. sr16ve with supercharger to 5000rpm and turbocharger from 5000-10000rpm with 2 litre crank :)

3. mini tub back of car and install hilux rear axle with disks set to 40 offset for tyres and mounted as a 4 link setup most likely similar to a stanza (no panhard rod)

4. install supra or celica 5 speed box (more ratio options, stronger box and quicker shifting than nissan)

5. full roll cage

6. fixed front carbon race type seats, no rear seats

7. pump guards to make the car look like a factory wide body fastback prototype for slightly wider tires hoping for 17 x 10 on back and 15 x 7 on front

8. rack and pinion steering on front

9. custom front suspension arms with coilover type shock through middle similar to cobra or westfield kit cars

10. Department of Transport approved, legally (which means only 6 inch wide tyres roughly for street use and wider tyres for show and drags)

11. face on passenger when I hand them the adult diapers to wear - priceless

Estimated build time 4-6 years, cost $30K plus all work apart from certified welding done by myself and friends. has to be finished by my 40th birthday

Estimated horsepower 400 ponies or 300Kw in a 675 Kg or 1485 pound car :)

power to weight ratio
1hp to 3.71 pounds
or 1Kw to 2.25Kg's
or 1hp to 1.68Kg's

Estimated quarter mile 9.005
Now that is SWEET Datto!!!!!!

Yes, that is the car I was talking about.

As for the 10A it is rare because you are unable to get big horsepower, mainly due to the main seals you are required to use, I had a friend who had a monster port 10a and he would have to put seals in it about every 15000 km's as they would not hold up. Speak to any rotary specialist and they will tell you to stay away unless you are really desperate, thus the reason am going down the nissan motor path. I believe you will most likely get bigger numbers out of a turbo nissan motor than a apirated 10A rotary anyway.

yes they will fit, anything will fit with enoguh work. In QLD you can only put in a 10A engine which has to be asprated. I was thinking of gong down that track but good luck finding a 10A motor, If you are lucky your rules might be more flexible but I doubt it. there is a 1000 coupe (2 dour sedan) that is in perth that has a 13b supercharged rotary in it. It does 8.5 sec 1/4 mile from memory. If you do a search on the site I think there are some picture and information about it. It is bright yellow, was also featured in one of the car magazines a year or so ago

I bought a datto 1000 fastback, I am building it to register on the street as well as an all round competition type car e.g. drags, sprints, drifting. I want to keep it looking pretty original but will try and update the car as well.

I have managed to get hold of a datto 1000 coupe which I will be using to set up the 4 link rear end in first as well as modifying the front suspension, before doing on my good fastback.
I will be doing minor tubbing on it and possibly pumping the guards slightly.

As for the motor I can only go 1.6L turbo so was considering getting a ca18det nissan motor halfcut and then using a ca16 block and running a supercharger as well.

I was a bit unsure how your supercharge and turbo works it sounds like they are running in series and the turbo has to draw through the supercharger, is this correct?

I was looking at the principle of using two air intakes one for the supercharger and one for the turbo with a slight overlap happening that way I could use a real large turbo for top end hopefully giving me good torque through the whole rev range.

I would love to know more about how your setup works as I figure it could save me for making unforseen mistakes.

I am also going to run carbon fibre door panels, full cage, fixed seats, recessed door handles similar to the exa's so you won't see them, clear altezza style lights keeping the original rear tail light housings, probably use later model lights on the front that use halogens.

Basically want to get rid of all the hard to get pieces and replace with later model stuff for easy maintenance.

I figure the car will take me about 3-4 years to build. hoping for a early 9 sec street car in full street trim. estimate my budget when finished to be around $40K with most of work being done by myself.

Want to know about Cameron Freeman and his bright green datto 1200 coupe.

http://www.turbophile.com/feature_cars/cameron_1200.html

would like to speak to him about what he has done as I will be trying to do something similar in my 1000 coupe but most likely with a CA16det motor

pm his details would be fine, does he still own this car or does it still even exist. does anyone have any more engine bay pictures?

had a look, not to bad of a car, typical gold coast car as it has some rust in the boot and surface rust in engine bay, rear quarters are very tidy and front guards bonnet and one of the doors need attention. Thought of buying it myself but am in two mind at the moment about it.

what are you doing with the motor and gearbox, selling it? if so I could be keen

Going to have a look this weekend hopefully if he messages me back. Just hope it is not rusty bit scared being a gold coast car and it has patches of paint on the paint work which look like it could be from rust fixing. Would be great to own two one for street and one for drag racing that look identical. ca16det for street and nissan rb30 for drag racing. If car is to far gone might get it for parts as there aren't many around anymore would cry if someone hit my restored car and I couldn't get panels for it.

Exactly right... have you seen the drifting commodore that has a live axle in it. Also what about the AE86 sprinters they came out live axle also. I am going to go live axle because it gives me everthing I need for the most all round super car.
1. drag racing wheels stay straight and do that horrible negative camber thing on the back like irs
2. drifting the car with a locked or lsd rear end will allways kick out easier than a irs car as the wheels are always in a level plane as well as being able to use the whole rear tire as you can't set rear camber.
3. live axle will give you more surface area on the track when racing typically around corners until you get to the point your suspension can go to and then wheels start lifting.
4. Axles are much harder to break than cv's
I have never broken an axle in a car yet but I have broken like 20+ cv's racing
5. You can tub a live axle car and run both skinny or big tyres whenever you want, on a irs car you can only offset your wheels outwards which means big flares.

Some people think irs is better for drifting and the only time I see it is is when you have a low horsepower car and set heaps of negative camber on the the back so that the wheels can break traction a lot quicker.

Just my two cents anyway