Just wondering as I'm thinking of buying another ute and I want to see if there's a model to go for that wont need an engineer cert for brakes to make insurance 100% legit.
Has anyone been caught out with insurance + a non approved brake conversion?
The rules also differ from state to state too. So, in New South Wales (where I lived until 3 years ago - the state that contains Sydney) you need to have your car inspected every 12 months but when you buy it gets transferred without need of inspection. In Tasmania (the separate little island at the bottom), you rarely need inspections. Only if the car has run out of rego for more than 3 months or if its the first time that the car is registered. In Victoria (where Melbourne is), you tend to get inspections only when the vehicle changes hands as one of the posters described.
Its slightly silly here. There is registration (which breaks down further into registration fees, taxes, etc), compulsory insurance (for injury), etc. Then there is separate insurance for the vehicle (not the driver!) for either 3rd party damage or comprehensive insurance. This obviously reflects that there are more cars than drivers in the country c.f. other juristictions that insure the driver for 3rd party property etc rather than the vehicle.
I can tell you what I paid for a 1200 ute in Tassie 2 weeks ago, but then I'd have to kill you...
No, paid $2200 with 5 months rego. overall condition: slightly below average for what you would pay for another car of that era for that price. Good engine. Crap diff and suspension if you've seen my other posts lately.
Felt dirty handing the cash over but I know that's a "reasonable" price considering what they are worth these days...
The fairly slow period of the noise has me thinking wheel bearings. However I suppose its possible that it could be the pinion moving back and forwards a bit - but then you would think that would behave differently under power or not.
On the weekend I might pull the axles and have a look at the bearings...
How much difficulty have you guy had getting wheel bearings for these little beasties? Do you need to replace the bearing collar as well?
Does anyone know if the 120Y diffs are a straight swap or not?
As there is a 120Y that I've been picking parts off (from a local wrecker at significant cost - any one got a 120Y for parts they want t part with in tassie?) that has a diff in it that "might" be better than the one iin the ute.
Also, I was quoted $300 for bearings in the diff providing the pinion and crown wheel is ok. Does anyone know if you can still get diff gears for these?
I know in the ute (with afaik stock guards front and rear), the rears did not scrape at all and the fronts showed signs of some scrubbing on the inner guard on the inside of the passenger kick panel. They didn't touch any outwardly visible parts of the car and didn't seem to scrub for me at all - but they obviously did a bit otherwise the wheel arch wouldn't have needed a bit of black paint when I put the stock rims on.
They're only worth what you're going to give me for them so make a reasonable offer via PM if you like.
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