I mannaged to clock 140kph in my stock 1200 Coupe, just the other day. It was revving at 4500-5000, and she was loud!
My home modified air filter improves the suction noises but at that speed and revs she screams! :)
I dont think I could ever rev to 5500-6000 rpm. My car would nearly die, I couldnt put it through it!
Although some of my mates say I rev that high when doing burnouts, but I hardly look at the tacho when doing burnouts.
My speedo might be out, but it is under the limit not over, so when my speedo says 60kph I might actually be doing 57kph. Does my speed and revs match you other guys? Remembering
that this is a bog stock A12.

Cheers Simon
Keep it totally sideways

what is the interior like in the new utes? does it have a new dash? I would love to just grab a new interior to update mine without going to the expense of
re-upholstering everything!

If you have already pulled out the springs you may be in a bit of trouble. On Monday I lowered my coupe by doing the dodgy method of lopping off some coils with the use of an angle grinder.
To get the springs out and in again I jacked the car up, placing the jack under the lower control arm as far as i could. This compresses the spring as far as it can go. I then ran a loop of
chain around a few coils and bolted the chain together to make a strong loop holding the spring compressed. Then you simply lower the jack and jack it back up under the crossmember or
somewhere similar. Undo the 2 bolts near the ball joint and the three nuts on the suspension tower (under the bonnet). The bolt near the caliper (disk brakes) will not come out unless you move
the caliper whcih is a pain in the ass. Instead undo the other bolt and remove it. Now twist the strut so the lower part of that arm the bolt goes through is exposed and lightly hit it with a
hammer while pulling on the strut. This should give you enough room to move the strut out without taking the caliper off to get at that bolt.
Getting the spring in was easier after I lopped off a coil or two. I took the chain off CAREFULLY so as not to knock myself out with flying chain. It needed to be taken off as I did not put it
on evenly and the spring had a bend to it and would not sit on the shock properly. Unfortunatly the spring was too long to squeeze down to get the nut on so I got everything in place as best I
could then got a mate to press the sring down on the shock while I quickly put its housing on and screwed the nut down.
If you are putting springs back in that are the same size as the original ones just make sure you get 2 loops of chain on opposite sides of the spring so there is no bend in it.
As teretonga said these are all dangerous methods and springs contain a lot of "sprung" force so just be careful. Buying a set of spring compressors would be the safest way.
By the way my car looks cool now that the guards sit lower to the tyres. The handeling also seems to have improved the opposite of what is supposed to happen.

Simon

I have sadly decided to sell all the left over parts from my two coupes. Back in 1998 I purchased to coupes with lots of spares, no reg, neither going and both were sitting under trees! I
have since restored one and have one left over which has pretty much all the bits to get it together. The car is currently stripped of everything including windows, engine, gearbox, diff,
crossmember etc. I was planning to build it up to race car specs with no interior and A15, but alas I can not afford to go down that path.
Here is a list of most of the parts I have sitting in my garage that I can think of:

3 A12 engines (have not been tested by me, so I have no idea if they go, one is in bits)
3 gearboxes (again not tested, but I know one doesn't have reverse) all four speed
differential and tailshaft to suit
clutches and flywheels
manifolds
radiators
starter motors
carburettors
altenators
distributors
trim panels
back seat
front seats (one broken)
dash and guages
all wiring looms
all lights, incl. tail, head, indicators etc
seatbelts
bare shell with doors, boot, bonnet and fenders
etc etc

The body of the car has had its share of shopping dents from the previous owner but has very little rust, so I should have used that shell to restore but I didn't and don't know why! The
front fenders are rough one in particular as it has smacked a dirt bank and is bent out of shape no thanks to me. The front apron is also rough, from the previous owner. Bonnet and boot are
fine. Doors are ok. All the mechanicals are a mystery to me because I chose one motor and gearbox (plus all the bolt on bits) and dropped it in my car and I have had no troubles at all. So I
have had no need to test the other engines but I have removed the heads to check the bores for signs of its past life and they don't look to healthy (all three that is). One of the engines is
in bits as I had a need to investigate the internals of an A12. So from all these mechanical parts you should be able to make 3 seperate engine/gearbox assemblies.
I don't want to send this car and its bits to the tip as I have grown to love these little weapons and would hate to see it wasted like that. If you know anyone who wants a great project and
has the money to restore it just reply to this letter. If anymore info is needed post a message. I am open to offers but would love someone just to take EVERYTHING off my hands as my garage
is very cluttered.

Cheers, Simon

My email address is zerochance@excite.com
Which part of the dash do you mean? Do you mean the dash pad (black foam thing) or the facia that holds the gauges.
Anyway, both parts are shagged. The dash is cracked and I have looked at getting it repaired but they said it would have
to be reskinned.
The facia part is broken as some dickhead tried putting a stereo in it and looks like they cut the hole for it with a
hammer.
Sorry to dissapoint you,

Simon

Well as I said in my original message I am all geared up now. I have to at least investigate costs and other issues at putting in a CA18DET.
Kev's car looks so good it just revved me up. The cost he mentioned of $4k for installing is that right Andrew? How much did you spend on installation? incl. suspension, brakes, etc but
not engine mods eg bigger turbo.
I think I could be easily satisfied on the performance output just running standard engine everything. I will be checking your web site closely for info and pics on your install again just
to get ideas.
I dont want to pay someone else to do everything because I have a welder and doing some of the work would be half the fun for me.
How hard were the electrics to do in your can Andrew? They just seem daunting to me.
When is the next issue of ZOOM coming out? This one with Kev's car is the first one I have bought and its a refreshing change to Hot4s.

Cheers, Simon

P.S. What are the difficulties of fitting a SR20DET vs. CA18DET, has anyone (eg. SSS Automotive, Datspeed) made conversion kits yet?
I know someone made kits for FJ20's into 1600's, what about us 1200 boys?:(

I urge all 1200 enthusiasts in Australia to get their hands on a copy of the latest Hot4s magazine No.61 and also ZOOM magazine No.30.
Hot4s features a wicked 1200 ute with an FJ20 conversion, very tidy.
ZOOM mag contains a very awsome 1200 Coupe similar to ca18det_man's. It runs a CA18DET with stock internals and turbo, and produces 140kW at the wheels and
13.6 second quarter miles.
It is a very neat car and the owner said it only cost him $4000 to do the install including labour! For more info checl out ZOOM magazine the $7 is worth it!
It just makes me want to do the same to my coupe, and I would if I had the cash and some more skills and experience.

Simon

After visiting CAMS about homolgation papers I have found that that they contain every little
detail about the car.
The guy showed me papers for a gemini. They cost $55 Australian but I rekon they are worth it.
The CAMS manual also details everything you need to know about racing classes and requirements.
So I am going to get both asap.

Was the twin cam engine 1200?
Do you know any specs about it?

Simon

As far as I know you need a set of homologation papers that state what the 1200 came out from the factory with eg. engine, gearbox, suspension.
These papers also have adjusting limits and other specifications.
The CAMS manual I also think has the rules and regulations for each class of racing.
I will drop in this afternoon and see what I can get my hands on.
I am still interested in what size carb(s) an A12 can handle. Assume it has had the head ported and shaved and a new exhaust. I am not sure if you can do this sort of mods in this
class but I will soon find out.

Cheers again
Simon

If a 1200 Coupe was to be raced in the PRC (Production Rally Class) am I correct in thinking you have to keep the standard A12?
If so, does anyone know what racers of these cars do to their engines to get more go.
One person, from DatSpeed here in Aus, told me that any size Webber would be too big for an A12 (load of crap if you ask me!) so what sort of carbs do they use? Twin 40ml Webbers
would be out of the question right?
Does anyone know what other sort of mods people do to A12's to race in this class other than induction.

Cheers
Simon