As everyone should know the 1200 Coupe (or all models?) came out with non-adjustable camber and caster. Unfortunatly when I hit the bank in my little off a while back the steering is way
out. I have just had a wheel balence and alignment and they said they set it up as best they could but it still pulls to the right (RHD car, hit the bank on right hand side). They said I
must have bent some of the suspension or something. I have all new tie rod ball joints etc, so I know nothing is worn.
GETTING TO THE POINT....I was reading in one of my HOT ROD magazines from the states about kits a guy made (we are talking in the 70's) for z's and 510's and 210's and other cars from the
70's with non-adjustable camber and caster that make them have adjustable caster and camber. It involves cutting a elongated hole in place of the old one in the control arm that is attached
to the crossmember. It also involves putting in a threaded caster adjustment bar.
I was wondering if anyone has one or knows where to get one. And ofcourse how much they are. My automotive teacher at college said Pedders Suspension should have a kit and last he could
remember they would be about $300 including instalation and setup. Does anyone know of any other kits?
My tyres are already starting to scrub out and my spec sheet from the wheel alignment place (bob jane t-mart) is off the show. Heaps of things are out like toe, camber & caster. It only had
the pull after I hit the bank, and I cant see anyhting under the car thats bent out of shape (its been up on the hoist for inspection at college).
If I installed a kit would it be possible to run a few degrees of negative camber and would this help the car handle or would I just stuff the front tyres too quickly.
Sorry about the length, any help much appreciated.

Simon

I have no idea but if they look good I want one too. I need some sort of spoiler on my car just to jazz it up a bit, as if the paint doesnt
attract enough attention!

I dont worry about using the pliers, I find that turning it about a 1/4 turn in a direction (cant remember which way it is, but its opposite way you turn to get the
windscreen wiper water jet going) makes it come of fine.

Added the last three photos I could find from my magazines.
The 1200 Coupe is from the 1984 James Hardie 1000 Official Program. I dont understand what the caption means by 'contraversial' 1200 Coupe works car. What
was wrong with it?
The 1000 was involved in a spin caused by the mini in the foreground and it took out four cars with it. I think the 1000 kept on racing.
I threw in the 120Y for a laugh. It is rotary powered (not sure what size). The article said it won every race and looked like it would win the season!
Both those photos are from RACING CAR NEWS August 1976 and March 1980 respectivly.

Hope you guys find some interest in the photos. I would love to see some video footage of the 1200 's at Bathurst, that would be magic!

Simon

Just been looking through some old RACING CAR NEWS magazines from the 70's.
Found some interesting photos and info.
Take a look at the new photo album I have made, called Datto Race pics from the 70's and the first pic of a
1000(?) rolling.
Also there is a FOR SALE section at the back of this issue (MARCH 1976) which has the following ad:

DATSUN 1000 SPORTS SEDAN. 1800cc motor.
This is an ACE Club racer with even more potential to come. Urgent sale required by wifey. Cheap car at
$1200.

It was for sale in Victoria. With an 1800cc (L18 maybe?) it must fang! Wonder if is still around?

Cant wait to read the other issues!
Simon

A copy of that book would be great.
I have now stripped the diff and rear suspension aswell as the front.
Im now looking at setups so I CAN plan ahead, I know I want to run A15 and 5-speed, still undecided on shocks and springs (basically all suspension!) except I know I am going to
run those nolathane(?) bushes instead of crappy rubber ones, I am going to weld all seams and put in a roll cage and probably paint the car high gloss red.
I am surprised how light the shell is. Having such a light shell means I can lift it onto the trailer when it goes to the welder and spray painter instead of having to put
wheels on it.

Thanks for all your help guys, anymore setups would be greatly appreciated.

Simon

I am looking at turning my second 1200 coupe into a circuit racer. I am unsure of which class and what modifications are allowed but I was wondering what sort of suspension
mods can be done.
I know this has been talked about over and over, but Im not clear as to what will fit and how.
I have heard about 180B, 200B and Stanza struts but what will work best for circuit racing?
If I replace the struts will I get bigger brakes?
Does this mean replacing fluid cylinders?
Thanks for any help

Simon

With the question/idea of turning a CA18DE into a turbo version (CA18DET) by using the exhaust manifold and turbo, i strongly recomend NOT doing this as the CA18DET engines have stronger
internals to handle the forced induction where as the CA18DE has not been built to handle the forced induction and you would find things breaking too easily unless you did some beefing up of
nearly every component. Why bother when you can get an import CA18DET.

The CA18DET comes out of the older 180SX (hatch) and older model (pre 90's) Silvia netting 131kw standard. The later model Silvia's (not 200SX's) ran with the SR20DET's making 153kw
standard. The 200SX (the Australian name) or Silvia (Japanese name) obviously runs SR20DET because of the 200 in the name, all 200SX's eg.1995-1998 had the SR20DET.
The CA18DET powered Silvia's are NOT 200SX's (and not 180SX's they were only hatches), they were never avaliable in Australia hence they keep the import name of Silvia and they also only had
1.8litres not 2, remeber the 200 in the name.
The later model shape of the 200SX, powered by the SR20DET was avalible in Australia not as an import and aussie Nissan gave them the name of 200SX instead of Silvia but they are correctly
named by enthusiasts as Silvia's.

Incase anyone needs more figures on the non-turbo's:
CA18DE - 101kw@6400rpm
- 16.2kgm@5200rpm

SR20DE - 105kw@6400rpm
- 18.2kgm@4800rpm

And the turbo's

SR20DET Turbo - Power 205ps(153kw) @6000rpm
- Torque 28.0kgm @4000rpm

CA18DET Turbo - Power 175ps(131kw) @6400rpm
- Torque 23.0kgm @4000rpm

I hope people understand what I have written as its an absolute mess, sorry.

Simon

Now that my car is back on the road I have been getting looks and coments from everyone who sees it. Most people ask what it is because I have de-badged the whole car so
only people with car education have any idea its a 1200.
All people love the paint work especially my best mate who comments saying "Geez this car looks good" every time we go for a spin.
I have taken a few people for rides and they all say it goes well for only 1.2 litres, then i remind them its bog stock and they reckon it goes extremely well for stock.
Couldn't help dropping a nice burnout leaving my mates driveway when there was about 5 of my mates hanging around. Smoke everywhere as I sat on the brakes for a while.
I finally have experienced one of the reasons we all modify our cars......the comments and looks from people. I love it. I just smile and drive on:) feeling great!

Simon

here are some previous messages I have collected as I wanted to do the conversion myself but I know now that I dont want to.


Re: L18/L20 in 1200 Davo1200
(19/M/SYDNEY!!) 5/16/00 4:18 am

I had looked into doing this conversion. It's not hard. You will have to change the engine mounts obviously. The L series is a bit taller than the A series so u will have to try and get it as
low as possible. The gearbox mounts will also have to fabricated. Also, the L series gearboxes have a hydraulic clutch, so u will either have to convert it to cable or get a clutch reservoir
connected to your pedal. The drive shaft will have to be cut and replaced uni's. I think that's all? The reason I didn't end up doing is because of the weight of the L series. I didn't want
understeer. Hope this helps.

Davo


Re: L18/L20 in 1200 teretonga
(34/M/New Zealand) 5/16/00 4:19 am

Hi Simon - here's some info about a L18 that someone put in their 1200. I reckon there are better choices out there now but maybe this will help you make up your mind. This is from Martin
Pots Website at http://members.iinet.net.au/~mpot/DatsunMods/
... has heard of someone who installed an L18 engine into a 1200. Then entire job was done by an
apprentice mechanic. It was a huge job, and involved deeply scalloping the cross member, engine mount mods, and reshaping the sump.
The engine runs custom extractors for clearance, with a 2.5" system and 3" tip. Induction is twin 45 side draught Webers, which give an incredible throaty roar under acceleration. The head
was extensively worked, with maximum porting, valve increases and a huge cam.
A factory EFI setup imported from Japan was tried, and found to be much smoother, but too restrictive above 6000rpm when used with the cam. The gearbox used is a reverse H Japanese race box.
The radiator is a custom 5 core with a big thermo fan. The diff is a shortened 1200 Ute diff.
The engine produced in excess of 170 hp, and was incredibly quick!


Re: L18/L20 in 1200 ca18det_man
(28/M/Mudgee Australia) 5/16/00 5:49 am

Well for less work and money fit an A14-A15 no other mods needed and can get same sort of power with less weight :)
Andrew


Re: L18/L20 in 1200 stirlingmac 5/16/00 5:31 pm

Not wanting to sound rude but for all the effort the choice of an L series would be a waste of time and money, as has been said already you can get as much power out of an A series anyway,
You could build a sleeper 1700cc stroker and there are no structural changes required and it still looks like a 1200 to nosy buggers. If your intent on going bigger look at the later
technology from Nissan like a CA 1600/1800 or the alloy SR series. Or if you're really keen an alloy quad cam Nissan V8! I've seen one in a 310 Sunny and there's plenty of room. But any
engine swap will require the gearbox tunnel to be modified (wider and probably higher) unless you can find a car that was an automatic as these usually have a bigger tunnel.


Hope this helps, but if you are almost finished on the conversion dont let this letter bother you. I havent started but I am going for a bored and fully worked 1500.

Simon