Once again, thank you ddgonzal.

I'm going to have to order that one from a Nissan dealers in the US. They can get it here in Canada, but only from Japan and that takes fooorreeevveer.

I had just driven my car down to and back from Seattle this weekend. It's a miracle I didn't breakdown on the I5. Instead, it just started to overheat less than a block from my house! Seattle was lovely, btw, except for the thundershower Saturday morning. :)

I have the twin Hitachi SU setup on my A14 with the coolant running through the intake manifold and into the cylinder head. I replaced the manifold gasket with one I made over 8yrs ago and it finally spung a leak! It was supposed to be a temporary fix.

Does anyone have a source for these gaskets? They look like this, though I think the GX is for the A12, not the A14.

Through extensive googling, I found this site: http://www.sportsimports.ca/

They do very nice roadster restorations, and have all the parts I need for my carbs and they are local to me. Here's the floats: http://homepage.mac.com/sportsimports ... Carb/SUCarb/1600112K.html The floats are totally affordable too.

I considered soldering my floats, but there a several super tiny cracks running lengthwise on the cylindrical surface of the float.

My A14 has the square top hitachi SU carbs and one of the floats has filled with fuel... are these still available anywhere?

I was thinking maybe I could drill a couple holes, drain the fuel and fill it with urethane foam. Has anyone tried fixing these?

Thanks very much!

The B110 unit is unobtainable in my area, so I went looking on the internets. And I couldn't find the B110 clutch there either. If the style of push rod is different, then it's even more likely I have the B210 master. Mine looks just like that one on ebay.

I have a 63 series 5speed dogleg tranny, should get this slave cylinder then?... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/72-80- ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

My clutch master in my '72 1200 is pooched. Will this one fit?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I think maybe the only difference between a the 1200 and b210 master is the length of the push rod. It was years ago now, but I think I might already have the later style master. I had to shim it out a bit.

Do the 1200 rear wheel cylinders interchange with 510 and b210? I see people claiming so on ebay, but when I phone my parts guy he says the numbers are different. Do they have the same outer dimensions, just different bores?

Oh yeah, I tried the jack method too, but it just lifted the rear end off the axle stands. Maybe I should get all my buddies to sit in the back seat and try again.

I'm gonna go to this wrecker I spoke to on the phone. He said he has a bunch of Datsun diff's and rear ends, but they are only marked as Datsun. He couldn't tell me if he had a 1200 one. If I can find a suitable replacement, I'll just slide hammer the old one off.

I just replaced a bad axle bearing on the passenger side of my '72 1200 and the play in the wheel lessened, but I could tell then from the way the wheel wiggles slightly that the passenger side diff bearing is totally shot. So I pulled the axles out, disconnected the drive shaft and removed the eight nuts that secure the gear carrier to the axle housing. But it won't budge. I tried banging on it with a fairly large ballpien hammer and even tried to drive a narrow chisel into the mating surfaces. The latter I didn't try too hard cause I didn't want to damage the surfaces.

The only other things I can think of to try is hit it with a bigger hammer, maybe a mini sledge, or attach a slide hammer to the input flange and tug it out. I'm a bit sketched out on both of those ideas. The slide hammer will likely damage the bearings on the pinion shaft.

So, are there any tricks here? It occurred to me afterward that what I thought to be a filler plug at the top, might actually be a setting screw. I've never used it to fill the diff with oil, since it's so awkwardly high. Instead I use the plug at the back to fill. None of my manuals mention removing that screw to disconnect the gear carrier.