Cheers guys.

A bit more digging and I spotted a 'tag' that was riveted to the underside at the front left.

OB2950023
M70 Ratio: 3.889
065 - 01798

It measures ~1295mm between the 4 bolt brake/wheel/hub mounts at each end.

I was looking to find a higher ratio diff (having manually deduced the 3.9 ratio). It's all mounted in my Lotus 7/Caterham type car and low end torque was a bit wanting.

Then I started building a spreadsheet of RPM/gear/speed and worked out that it's probably not worthwhile unless a 4.9 or something drops into my lap (not likely).

Bearing in mind this is all in South Africa, the BW68 apparently was also used on the Toyota Corolla (which has always been quite popular here), so it sounds feasible.

I might take a closer look at the local 1400 bakkie/ute, not sure what they're using here, though something tells me it'll also be 3.9.

It's all got to come out anyway to replace the suspension rose-joints, so I'll have some time to work out a plan.

Thanks

thanks

I can't find a reference in the manual, is it normal for coolant to come out of the bolt hole circled in the picture?

I don't have a camera handy, so I 'borrowed' one of Mildmans pics :)

When I remove the bolt, coolant flows out at a leisurely pace. Querying because I think the head bolt that is from that corner of the block appears to have had some contact with water (it's stained on the top half of the thread).

Ola,
First off, is this a datty/nissan diff/axle, and if so which? It's attached to an A15 motor and 60-series gearbox.








And the other query. I've just hauled the engine + gearbox out of the car for an inspection/rebuild. The input shaft in the bellhousing seems to be somewhat loose. I can move it with my fingers, total sway at the top around 1mm. I take it this is not normal? Any suggestions where to look?

Cheers,

Paul

Thanks Mildman, I couldn't find a 'reply' button for PM.

After much debate with myself about exactly what to do with this engine of mine, I've removed one side of the ancillaries (exhaust, carbs, etc). I guess I'll be ready to hire the engine hoist over the weekend to pull it out.

It's currently sat in my Lotus 7 replica, hauling twin Weber 40's off the side was (for not the first time) daunting :) Removing the exhaust + manifold was a new one on me, the tail pipe is basically a 4" dia tube strapped to the side of the car :D

If only I could find a reliable source for A15 parts here in South Africa, I think I'd keep it, but for the moment I suspect I'll end up replacing it with an A14, which at least has a local supply chain, given the local Nissan 1400 bakkie/ute being available from new (still!)

The manual applies to both *grin*

Thanks

Anybody have a copy of the A15 workshop manual I might be able to get a copy of?

So I'm a fool...

"Can you confirm those readings are with the throttle wide open..."

Now it's showing 154psi for cyl3 and 147psi for cyl4.

Doh, back to the ignition or carbs I guess.

The head came back, went back on, and life was produced. Joy and smiles aplenty.

In the process of trying to get it going smoothly we discoevered that cyls 3+4 were producing nothing in terms of power. Ctl 3 is not firing at all, and 4 is producing pops, but no power. Removing either/both plug leads for 3/4 does nothing to idle sound/speed.

New dizzy cap and rotor didn't solve anything. Swapping plugs and/or leads similar. Checked and adjusted vavle clearance (clearance probably larger than needed, rather than smaller)

Application of the compression tester produced:
1, 2, 3: 600kpa (or very close) == 85psi
4: 400kpa region == 56psi

Bearing in mind the engine was warm but certainly not 'normal running temp' (who wants to run up to temp on 2 cylinders?) I'm guessing I have problems down there. A good dose of oil in cyl 4 didn't achieve any noticable change.

I'm concerned that I may be jumping to the wrong conclusion though, since cyl 4 seems to be at least popping, but 3 nothing at all (not the other way round).

Thoughts?

The car went onto the dyno because I was having a little stutter in progression, thought that maybe they could help diagnose the webers. As it turns out they pointed me in the direction of the blown gasket.

Didn't ask how the power was calculated, but when the head is back on I'll take it back and get more info.

I'm told all they done was play about with the timing, though I don't see 30%-ish in timing alone. They are meant to be reputable, but I have no experience with them previously.