I am still looking for a RWD bellhousing to mate the GA16DE to a RWD chassis. My construction makes this a possibility if I can find the bellhousing. I have been reading up and I think that 200 HP (at the crank) is doable NA. That would be just the ticket for my installation as I am restricted (by a single air restrictor) to about 175. If you find something, let us all know.

When I searched for Triumph engine swaps, or something like that I found this site.

http://www.triumphspitfire.com/engineswaplinks.html

There is a Triumph Spitfire with Nissan 1600 engine swap listed but following the links didn't get me anywhere. Maybe someone here smarter than me can find that article. It really doesn't say that it was a GA, just a 1600 so it could have been a 2v 510 engine.

I use a very large 1/2" drive socket and run a 3/8" bolt with a large washer through it. Select a socket that is slightly larger than the O.D. of the bushing and a washer that is slightly smaller than the I.D. of the LCA opening. Position the socket with the open end toward the bushing so that it can slip out of the control arm and into the socket. Tighten a nut on the bolt and it will pull the bushing out of the LCA and into the socket.

Sounds like a bunch of fun. You would probably like my buddy's 710 w/ the Ford 302 in it. One of his next projects will be a 1600 Roadster with a Small Block Ford.

cheers

I don't know about the availability but in the US we can get a small TIG for around $225 at Harbor Freight. I have both a small home/hobbyist MIG and this small TIG. I am still learning the technique but common wisdom says that if you can get the "touch" that the TIG will produce cleaner/nicer welds. Of course we are also able to "rent" a bottle for lifetime for $80 and re-fills are about $20 so I have one of each argon/co2 mix and straight argon for the TIG.

Anyway, I agree, give it a try. If you got the car for nil and the welder for the prices that are being talked about for your area the worst that could happen is you learn to weld and have a welder for other projects to boot. And I would say to stay away from the flux core wire unless there is no other way. It makes acceptable welds, you just have to chip and wire wheel a lot of stuff off. Sort of like welding with the stick welder.

I am building a header (extractor) for an SR20DE normally aspirated race engine. Do any of you have experience with tube diameter and primary length. Planning to run at pretty low RPM (7500 max) so I am looking for more torque than ultra high RPM HP. Will be running approx 11.5:1 C:R with the SR20 and when converted to new engine will be in the 14:1 range. I was thinking in terms of 1.5" primary tubes but don't know where to start on the primary length. I will be running a 4-2-1 flowmaster collector and a 2.5" exhaust into a muffler. Eventually will be converting to an SR16VE if that makes any difference in what you have in the way of a recommendation. SR16VE will have I.R. 50mm throttle bodies and will run with a Sealed Air Box and Sigle Inlet Restrictor. (This is an SCCA GT-Light car) That is why I am thinking in terms of using 1.5" primary instead of 1.625" or larger. Any help appreciated.

I should also mention that the reason I am asking this weird question, instead of just buying a header from someone who already makes one is that this is going in a tube-frame RWD race car. None of the commercially available headers are configured to fit the chassis. Due to ride height, etc. it needs to wrap over the bellhousing and go out the right side of the car.

Look up Peter Zekert in the member directory. Or look him up in St.Louis area phone book. He has a line to all sorts of 1200 stuff in the states.

The 4 -2 - 1 header is pretty standard fare. In the US Flowmaster makes a collector like this for headers (our peculiar word for extractors). I wouldn't go any larger than 1.5" on the primary tube (between the exhaust port and the collector) and then it steps up to a 2.5" outlet. If the heads there are anything like the ones here in the US you won't be able to achieve the same size ports with an A12 head as an A14 head has. Once you find an A14 head have it done the best you can by your machinist, he'll know the type of things to do. Good luck and have fun.

This was a reply that I made to another member who was interested in putting an SR16VE in his 1000. Hopefully these measurements might help you as well to determine if the SR20 will fit into your car (ute). The engine that I measured is a FWD model so the dist. protrudes from the back of the head. I the one that you got is a RWD model than "goodonya" (is that how you guys say that?). Not only is the engine large, if you do have a FWD engine, there is not a production bellhousing that fits a RWD trans to the FWD engine, apparently. I am working on an adapter to fit a Toyota Supra trans to mine. There is a guy in the US that has made an adapter to fit the L-series trans to an SR20DE or SR16VE.

I took few measurements that I think might help you in determining the ease of fitting an SR16VE to your 1000.

First of all, as has been mentioned, the SR series engines are big physically, particularly as compared to an A series. These measurements have been taken from an SR20DE but as near as I can tell and from what people have said here the external dimensions should be similar, if not exact.

The crankshaft centerline to the bottom of the sump is 7".

The rear of the cylinder block to the front of the sump is 21".

The rear of the cylinder block to the centerline of the crank pulley is 19 3/4".

The height of the complete engine is about 23". (from the bottom of the sump to the top of the cam cover.)

The cylinder head overhangs the rear of the block by about 1 1/4".

The distributor protrudes from the back of the head by about by about 5".

I talked with some guys from Japan at the PRI show in Orlando last year. Inquiring about GA16DE RWD applications, they said that there were none in Japan. What does that come out of, maybe they were mistaken. My original thought was to use a GA16 as well.

Had a set (pair) of 40DHLA Del Orreto carbs on an A12. I think that these are very similar to Webers. Raced this car for 4 years, let it sit for 3 and put it back on the track and it still ran beautifully. The only adjustments that were required, re-jetting when going from high altitude to near sea level. Oh, I think I checked the float level one time also.
While getting the venturi diameter and overall sizing right is important, if you have too small a carb it will just limit your top end, make sure that you get the air corrector and main jet right for proper off idle and mid range performance. You may have to play with it a bit. This is why guys who race them have a box full of jets.