Yeah when l took the clock out of my ute l found that it just had three screws holding it in. There is one at 1, 4 and 8. There is also a bracket attached at 5 that may have a little bolt through it but l cant remember.

The screws run from behind the dash into the dash, so use about a 100mm shaft phillips head (screws are close to the clock housing), and go under the dash. There's plenty of room.

Then all you have to do is unplug the wire.

There is no need to remove the dash or anything else at all

Cheers

It's sometimes hard to say what can be wrong without driving it....but l would start with..

check the air filter...can be dirty/blocked and need replacing
make sure all vacuum lines are attached and where they should be.

You can try just turning up the idle speed, but if it idles fine normally, and only stalls when slowing down, then l'd think it's something else.

Oh yeah prob best to adjust idle screw when hot, as this is the condition it will be in when driving (use choke when cold!)

Not sure exactly you're intent here, but l'll try and give you a basic run down.

Compression ratio is just the volume contained in a cylinder at BDC divided by the volume at TDC.

Or a 10:1 compression ratio means that the air (and possibly fuel) get compressed to 1/10th the size... so if it was 500ml its now 50ml.

If you increase the diameter this will just mean that you start with a larger number and end with a larger number, but essentially the ratio will stay the same..

However, this would require that the exact same cavity in the piston existed. So if you got flat tops, or different cavity pistons then this can, and in most cases does, increase compression ratio..

An increase in compression ratio is good as it not only provides greater pressure for combustion, it also increases efficiency of the engine..

The reason it is not increased dramatically is dependant on other factors such as fuel, timing, detonation etc.

So it comes down to the type of oversize pistons that you've used.

Hope this helps

I'm after an A14 or A15 engine to put into my ute...Any Condition...as l was going to rebuild it..

Also consider already modified engines

Melbourne Area

sorry for not explaining myself correctly...you are right...it is for stiffness...by decreasing the distances between each weld (whether spot weld or not) you increase chassis rigidity. This can also be achieved using a cage, but it is bloody hard to build a cage around the front end. Thus seam welding is usually done around the front of the car, in and around wheeltubs, while the primary source of stiffness is a cage. You cant go past good seam welding, as a cage by itself or even stiff suspension can still tear seams apart.

The 1600 workshop near you does an excellent job of seam welding....
The main benefits are if you are fitting high horsepower engines... As engines tend to twist and distort engine bays (transmitted through the engine mounts) the "factory" spot welds can break. Seam welding primarily strengthens these "factory" welds. If you dont like seam welding (with a mig) then you can run more spot welds (prob costs heaps more though). Overall it does stiffen up the car, which is why you only weld for about an inch and then leave a 2-3 inch gap.. to still allow for flex, and to stop cracks.

I actually want to use the rotors and calipers and put them on stanza struts....it just so happens that the front offsets are exactly the same... just the bearing in the 300zx has larger outer diameter.

Does anyone know if the older 80's model 300zx (Z31) 4 stud wheel pattern is the same as a 1200?

I have heard about the stanza strut upgrade and that r31 calipers bolt straight on. What l am wondering is about the camber...
will l start with +ve camber and then barely be able to get any -ve camber...
I don't wont to move the lower arms out any further as l want the car low, and the tyres will rub the guard (already extremely close)

also does anyone know if stanza struts have similar camber (standard) to 1600 struts??