thanks for that.

Yeah, l was thinking of using the PBR brakes as they are bigger. Currently the sedan has a single reservoir. It's practically new (just replaced before l bought it), but a wheel cylinder is stuffed, so l cant be bothered with the drums anymore.

So does this mean l will need to upgrade the brake lines?? (hard lines). Will the 120y ones fit into a sunny m/c?

Are all sunny m/c's 13/16? Or is there a particular year l should look for?


Thanks again!!
Andy

I'm wanting to convert a sedan to disk brake front, so am looking at getting some later model 120y (76 on) struts.

I'm sure l need to get the master cylinder, brake lines & maybe change the rear wheel cylinders.

But do l need the lower control arm & ball joint?? Or do l use the current BJ? What about the castor rod? Are the control arms the same except the bolt holes for the BJ are bigger??

Thanks
Andy

Might drop in for a while, but she's not capable of any long driving!!!

Could be the last trip for a while. I'll be taking it off the road to finish the drivetrain / suspension.......then finally l will be able to come on a cruise!!!

Just need to get the damn subi back together.......does it ever end???

Steel hardcover with gas struts.....that way you don't see underneath!!

Thats unreal!!!!

What ECU are you running??

Very nice work!!

I'm in guys.......I like Shaun's sticker...nice style....

Just have to find room on my rear window!!!!

I'll take two when they're ready!!!!

Not sure exactly what the manufacturers guidelines say, but in my 71 1200 sedan, we are getting around 8.7 litres per 100km's.

Totally stock standard, but driven fairly hard!!

I also find myself using multigrips when screws are stuck. Sometimes this also gives you more leverage to get the stubborn ones undone (providing you can get the multigrips to grip!!)

Not sure about the vibrating/noise, but it could be something to do with the wastegate (might be stuck open). Also I'd check all the lines and make sure that there are no leaks (your vacuum/boost gauge should help with this).

Is it running factory computer?? Sometimes if there is a problem with the engine (a sensor down etc) they resort to base mapping & no boost (well 6psi is no boost )

Also, sent you a pm about the stuff you have for sale

I'll start by asking the usual, "where are you". If you fill in your location this helps others help you.

Then it depends if you really want all that chassis stiffness, ie high performance, track work etc (a cage and a few strut braces may do the job).

But if you want it done, you can do it yourself. Weld about 20-30mm long, then leave about twice that or more space between the next weld (to allow for chassis flex, otherwise it'll crack).

Make sure not to weld forward of the front strut towers or rear of the rear strut towers.

If welding thin sheet metal is not your idea of fun, there's plenty of places that should be able to help. I can give you a few places in Melbourne that do good work.