I am kinda struggeling for room so it was more for fit than for function. I am planning on using some alloy brake cooling ducting to vent some air onto the cooler as well as fitting a pair of 5in thermos to it. I agree its not in the best spot for air flow but other than running meters of hose to the rear and putting it under the tray I am kinda stuck. Although running metres of hose to the rear would have increased my oil capacity somewhat more than the engine bay mount.

Well I finally mocked up and made the oil cooler bracket.
First pic is the proposed spot on the chassis rail. It was kinda the only spot it would fit with room to run the hoses.
Second pic was a dummy fit.
Third is fitted showing the gap between the throttle body and the cooler.
Fourth pic is the finished frame minus paint.
Finally the fifth is fitted showing the gap between the alternator and the cooler. I leaned the cooler towards the inner guard as to give me room to run the lower radiator hose also to give be a little room to run a 5in thermo fan, which funnly enough are quite hard to find locally.

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I machined my tripple CA18 tripple pully down to a twin pully. All went well until I started to clean up the face with a few light passes and it fell appart. I had cut off too much. So if the exa twin pully is a similar design I would not remove anymore than half of the pully so I am thinking 1 or 2 ribs will be fine. But that being said I dont know how the twin pully is designed so you might be risking your shiney PWR intercooler if you cut off too much and it lets go one day.

Not overkill at all, cause I am doing the same thing :). If your doing a custom dash then price up all the gauges you would need ie good quality Speedo, tacho, fuel level, oil pressure, engine temp, may be boost/vac, may be volts, may be air fuel ratio, may be exhaust temp, may be tranmission temp. Then on top of that you may need sensors to run some or all of those gauges plus running wiring to all gauges. I reccon just to price up the necessary good quality gauges would be $700 to $1000 which is almost the price of the racepak iq3 dash. It would be quite a hassel and time consuming, for me to go gauges. The dash is one neat looking unit and it can display what ever you need, well up to 6 items anyways from memory.

I just measured one of my cam cover (rocker cover) bolts and its 6mm diameter 40mm long with a pitch of 1.00 but I dont have a coil cover on mine sorry

I also finished off the supply (high pressure) side of the fuel pump cradle. I am unsure weather I will bother with doing a bulkhead fitting on the return side as it will be at a lower pressure but I will have a look in my bag of goodies and if I got one lying around I will just do it.

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Well I finally got the remote oil filter kit out of the box and made a start.

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Hay oda70, the ross single pulley is a beautiful lump of alloy and steel, I'd love to have one but your right about the money, they do cost a bit, just over $500. Well worth every cent but I just cant justify that on mine, I didnt know about the ross made a 2 pulley setup supafatto, thats a little more in my price range. I will ring around and see if I can find a good 2 pulley balancer from a Exa and if not I might just go the powerbond 20% under drive 3 pulley setup, about $250 delivered. I know its 3 pulleys but I should be right for room...

Hay D, those pullies are nice and shiney but do nothing to reduce/absorb engine harmonics as there is no rubber ring between the inertia ring and the pullies. I might source a exa pullie as supafatto says they are only 2 pully or just bite the bullet and run a 3 pully balancer.

That does help supafatto, might hunt around and see if I can find one, Cheers for the hot tip.