Yeh mate the long ones fit TRX rims. What's not fitting on yours mate, the rim to the hub or the wheel nut too the wheel stud. Got any pics of how it's not fitting. Is there a size marked on your wheel nut if so is it 12x1.25???

here is a close up of the extractors brand name.

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  HITECH EXTRACTORS.jpg (103.22 KB)

here ya go, the long one is what you need as is suits an alloy rim but either can be used on a steel rim. The short one is a stock standard wheel nut to suit a steel rim.

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  WHEEL NUTS.jpg (106.98 KB)

Cheers oda70, yeh, I did smooth it out a little, I just removed some of the un-used castings and what not to help with the clearance in the tiny 1200 transmission tunnel, also removing allot of the castings and ribs helped in putting the engine and box in and out many times by reducing it snagging on the body. Thats good to hear about that stainless manifold and E85, it is just a cheapie.

Next step from here is to fab up a support bracket between the exhaust and the block to help support the weight of the turbo/exhaust dump pipe/exhaust manifold. Pictures to follow once its built.

no mate, I got TRX rims on my 1200 ute and I am using standard wheel nuts from repco, but they suit a alloy rim. What you will need to make sure is the length of the nut needs to be about 25-30mm as the depth of the hole in the rim is too deep for a standard 10-15mm wheel nut from a steel rim. Hope this makes sence, if you need I can organise a pic.

ITEM:
1200 Engine - Was running nicely when removed from the ute 2 years or more ago. Has a Stage 3 Wade cam in it so its got a great little lumpy idle. It revs well and had bugger all wrong with it but it has been sitting for a few years so buyer beware.

4 Speed - Didnt grind or clunk, comes with a ute tail shaft

HiTech extractors - Good condition, 4 into 1 design, some dints and scratches.

2.5in exhaust - home made from bits of pipe found in a scrap bin and was built to suit a 1200 ute but with a grinder and welder it could even suit your mums Excel.

REASON FOR SELLING:
I need more coin to pump into the CA project

PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS:
I am after $500 for the lot but thats Negotiable, you can pay more if you want too.

EXTRA INFO:
I want to sell it all in one hit but if I have no luck then I may part it all out.

LOCATION:
Its all located out at Pine Mountain which is 15 minutes from Ipswich, Queensland. If your nice I can relocate it all to Flinders View or if your REAL nice I might even deliver it all to the Brisbane area (if there is a cold beer waiting)

CONTACT:
Post here or PM me

PICTURES:

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  1200 ENGINE AND 4 SPEED1.jpg (113.01 KB)


  1200 ENGINE AND 4 SPEED2.jpg (116.67 KB)


  HIGH TECH EXTRACTORS, 2.5IN EXHAUST AND PROP SHAFT.jpg (136.53 KB)

Well I havent really done much over the last 2 weeks but I did get my turbo drain to sump sorted. I went to pirtek and baught some steel -10 fittings and welded them to the existing flange and return pipe. Then I made the return hose out of a little left over braided fuel hose. I used -10 because it flows the same ammount as the origional turbo drain if not a little more as there is no kink like what what was in the origional steel drain tube.

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  TURBO DRAIN.jpg (80.48 KB)


  TURBO DRAIN PIPE.jpg (102.45 KB)

thats cool, wishfull thinking I suppose. D
oesnt really bother me though.

you sure about that D, i was sure that crank breathers had to be plumbed back into the intake so the engine consumed the crankcase vapours. Even with a filter on the outlet of the catch can vapour will still escape to atmosphere. But hell if I dont need to then I am all for venting to mother nature, makes plumbing a tad easier.

2 catch cans on each side, may be if I had the room, man there would be hoses and cans going everywhere. Plus I am trying to keep it as legal as possible so I will not vent to atmosphere. I think I might make sure my engine breathers are clean to start with and look at modifying a second head for the future.