The lads tuning my setup said that they have had good results from using coils from the LS1 V8 engine in the commondoor and said I should run them on my donk. They have also used them on various RB engines with good results too. They are a good cost effective upgrade over the stock ones.

Trying to get the right engine/gearbox angle is a pain in the BUM, fingers crossed this is close enough for my setup.

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  gearbox angle.jpg (94.38 KB)

Hmmm, weld on a fitting you say, I might look into it. Yeh that bung is under the water fitting, it looked large so I wad hoping it was an alternate oil return. I'll take a pic myself just to be sure. I mean its right below a welsh plug so its more than likely a water jacket bung but it cant hurt to ask.

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  Drain bung.jpg (70.96 KB)

I am looking at the turbo side of the CA block and there is the standard turbo oil drain that is a flanged pipe that goes into the sump right below the engine mount. My question is "is the a drain hole into the block that I can screw a tapered thread barbed or -10 fitting into"? I have noticed that towards the rear lower part of the block, on the turbo side, there is a bung screwed into it but I am not sure what its for. I want to run braided hose and screw in fittings on my turbo so no hose clamps is my aim and the oil drain is my only hold up.

Cheers for any feed back

Cheers mate, heres a pic of the adaptor I had to modify so the turbo would fit neatly between the shock tower and the head on the new top mount manifold. Even with the modified adaptor I still had to massage the shock tower so the coolant lines and turbo blanket would fit.

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  Modified T25 to T3 adaptor.jpg (94.87 KB)

Here is a little progress shot of whats been done so far in the engine bay.

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If you are gunna try and drill out the broken bolt and easyout then use a left hand cut tungsten drill bit (i know it sounds like another workshop prank like chequred paint but they do exist) That way when your trying to drill out the broken bolt the reverse cutting action will not only drill a hole but also try and unto the broken bolt. Worse case you are left with a hole you can helicoil best case it comes out after a few mm of drilling. Use penty of cutting compound and make sure you set the head up in a jig so its kept perfectly centered to the hole and squared off, good luck.

Gday,
I got the injectors from VPW for around $120 each and another few bucks for the 11mm fuel rail adaptor.
As for the fuel rail its was from these guys http://www.billetturbochargers.com/index.ews I think it was just over 200 bucks.

I didnt know that about the haltech, cheers for the heads up.

I reccon its almost worth going new, for the extra 400 odd bucks you got a little piece of mind being brand new, set up ready to go, plus warrenty. Rebuilding the old one is fine but there may be slight wear in the compressor housing you cant fix plus any slight warpage in the turbine housing too. One other thing for some ebay gear, its really hit and miss on the quality. Some stuff might last another 100000km other crap wont last backing out the driveway.

Well it started life as a stock 1200 4 speed ute, A12 with a lumpy cam, extractors and a home built 2.5in exhaust. It was enough to push it down the Townsville 1/4mile in 18.8 seconds starving for fuel from the stock carb. Well those days are long gone and the following list is what its now got.

-Nissan Silvia front brakes on 120y hubs with Kev Rowley adaptors
-new KYB shocks all round
-all new ball joints, tie rod ends, bushes etc
-MADDAT sway bar
-MADDAT brake booster, alloy backing plate, heavy duty clutch pedal and hydraulic clutch set up.
-R31 skyline rear diff shortened to fit
-custom heavy duty prop shaft to suit
-R31 skyline fuel tank with Kev Rowley filler pipe
-Nissan TRX 15in alloys
-CA18DET 5 speed with new bearings and seals
-NPC Billet steel flywheel and heavy duty clutch all secured with ARP fastners.
-CA18DET rebuilt with mahle pistons
-Nissan Silvia radiator
-Garrett GT2560r
-Ebay special Top mount exhaust manifold
-K&N Apollo air intake/filter setup
-3in home built mandrel exhaust
-Ebay 600x300x76 intercooler
-Aeroflow remote oil filter/cooler set up
-XF ford throttle body on home built adaptor.
-Ported intake manifold to suit the larger throttle body.
-Ported intake runners with the butterfly setup removed.
-Fuel system consists of Aeromotive stealth 340lph intank pump, Proflow fuel filter, Billet turbochargers custom fuel rail, Aeromotive FPR and ID1000cc injectors all these are connected with -6 Aeroflow 200 series teflon lined braided hose and proflow fittings.
-there might be a few things I have left out but I will keep you informed

Things to come;
-Haltech platinum sport 1000 ECU setup to run MAFless tune on E85
-Haltech Racepack dash
-lockrite diff lokka or LSD (undecided)
-heaps of little things that I havent thought of yet.

The aim is to have a fun daily driver that I can punish down the quarter mile whenever the need arrises. The Haltech can run dual maps so one will be E85 and the other pump fuel. I'll be happy with 200hp to 250hp at the wheels and hoping it will be ultra reliable.

Well thats all for now, I got a few pics in my photo album http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/viewcat.php?cid=188 so have a little looksy, cheers for reading.