Just need to replace some 1000 gearbox crossmember bolts. Can anyone tell me what size, length and thread they are? I'm guess m10?

Si I'm a little confused. With a 1200/120y gearbox, do I need the 1200/120y gearbox crossmember to fit in a 1000 or the 1000 crossmember? Thanks :)

Just double checking. Does the standard 56a gearbox crossmember fit to a 1000 body or do I need a 1000 gearbox crossmember? Thanks

Is there anyway I can delete this thread and start a new one?

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I would love to but when it goes through our inspection, any type of mods like that will require an emissions test which is very costly. Have heard it's about $1300. Trust me, if I could get rid of that dizzy I would haha. In the future I might go about changing things but for the time being I have to stick with getting the dizzy to work. I'm just using alloy 3d printer toothed cogs. The belts look like they are made similar to timing belt ones with material incorporated and about 10mm wide. Teeth are about 5mm in depth so should be sufficient to drive a dizzy. One cog will have 3 holes drilled so it can be bolted directly to the cam & cam gear. The other of the same size has a 12mm bore which will match the dizzy shaft diameter. Have some bits and pieces coming in to make up a bracket for the dizzy which will allow the dizzy to sit snug in the inlet manifold (between the throttle body and inlet runners). I'll 3d print a front cover to cover the dizzy pulley system.

In Australia ca18det and sr20det's are going for stupid money. I have seen them at $8-10k plus I'm not sure they fit too well in a 1000. I think with the use of a 411 h165 and maybe the dellow celica gearbox conversion, it will make a budget street setup. I'll have to go the maddat front disk conversion aswel as the trx rear disks. I'm trying to use the most amount of factory parts I can which most the engine stuff seems to be throw away from other nissan engines (turbos, injectors etc)

They allow to turbo or supercharge the factory engine in 1975 and earlier vehicles without engineering so it means I had to use an a10. If I have to engineer then why not go for the E15et as I believe it to be a superior motor to the a15. I get ohc, factory turbo, turbo manifold, injection, turbo oil passages aswel as a larger valve, angled valves and factory oval ports. It also will help because I won't have to do any emission testing with factory components. I am currently designing a bracket that will allow use of the factory dizzy using a small gilmer type setup of the cam to drive the dizzy allowing the use of the factory computer. Once it's all done I will post up the how to on here. E15et motors are cheap. I bought 2 running ones for $150 each so doesn't get much cheaper then that for a factory turbo engine. Tight a$$ conversions here we come lol

Such a nice helpful reply...
Obviously I was looking into my best options and just seems the a10 is too hard to deal with to bring up to the current standards of power. I have decided to go the e15et route. I have done this conversion before but this time I will improve in using the factory dizzy which means I can use the factory computer. The engines are cheap. I just paid $150 each for 2 running engines, $20 for a turbo and manifold. The one good point for the dattos is that u could cheaply get them going well. When I say cheap, not spending $8k on a import motor and box which is where things have headed now days, then spending another $6k+ on diffs, brakes and suspension. If I can use a stock e15et, 411 h165 diff and maddat brakes upgrade then the last thing left is the gearbox. Compared to other conversions, this is a budget upgrade. It might be the 1st but its worth exploring imo

Would u know who I could goto who would cut and shut a gearbox? Not sure what type of person would do that and if it's just easier and cheaper to go get a celica box fitted? After thinking, it's probably better I use the e15et motor as it comes with so many factory components for a turbo engine, they are pretty cheap as many engines are just laying in people's sheds doing nothing and they are a hardy engine. It seems the 411 diff will be easy to fit to the 1000 as supposedly it's the same length but I do wonder if the 60 series gearbox is going to hold up to a mild e15et (more boost and programmable computer)? I don't want to start chopping the tunnel to fit an auto which apparently wont fit a manual tunnel so now that's out of the equation unfortunately. Would have been a cheap strong answer. From what I have read, the 60 series gearbox is rated to 135 lb.ft, a stock e15et puts out 123 lb.ft so I'm thinking the weak link is going to be the stock gearbox

3 of the gearbox bellhousing bolts line up. Put the a series ring gear on the e series flywheel which allows u to use the a series starter. E series oil cooler needs to be removed as that's where the starter motor sits. I believe a 90 degree adapter on the turbo manifold may allow the use of a subaru type turbo (td04 etc). I'm yet to test that. Remember this is for a 1000 which doesn't have strut towers so u might have to get a turbo manifold made up. Use the e series clutch which works fine with the 60 series gearbox/fork. Engine brackets/mounts have to be mounted where the e series alternator and a/c compressor used to be. U cannot use the factory e series dizzy as it will go through the firewall. Some sort of trigger must be used. I am trying to see if a sr20det crank angle sensor can fit in its place. In a 1000 u must use the non turbo rocker cover as the turbo one is too high. Rocker cover mounting studs of the non turbo e series must be used aswel. At the ba k of the head is the cooling system outlet. That has to be spun around so it faces the other direction. Need to have a fuel return line for the efi. On the turbo engine backing plate i had to cut out a section to allow the starter to go through as the e15et starter used to be a top mount starter. U have got hold of a non turbo backing plate which has a different starter location. That may work. A 1200 might have better height clearance so u might be able to use the turbo rocker cover as it does look prettier lol.

It's a lot of small things but easier then trying to get a series turbo and injection manifolds made up and way more factory parts.