Bob I know what you are talking about with the wheel nuts, If I still had them off my hotwires I would be happy to give them to you! As I feel bad about all the crap you get about not being able to afford a shirt!
( Everybody here knows Dattos are more important than clothes!)
But if I do come across some I will definatly get back to you!

Cant say I have seen a KB laser turbo but I know on my KB laser runaround that the carbie is exactly the same as the 1200 type (the only modification requirements requiered to fit it to the 1200 manifold is 1 hole needs to be drilled for one of the 4 studs! If you look at 1 you will see what I mean!)

I used to have a customer that had put the daihatsu carbie and turbo setup on his 1300 corolla! ( he was a mechanic that knew about carbies and I am sure he resized the jets!) The car was very zippy around town due to the small turbo! (Later he put the fuel injection and a bigger turbo!)

Regarding the fuel filler neck - I think I understand what you mean! but there was no need as the pressure is in the fuel lines not the tank!( I don't think I would like a tank that was beeing pressureised!)
- This is what we used;
1 VL Commodore Fuel Pump,
1 Malpassi Rising Rate Fuel Regulator (for carbie not injection! ),
and 1 fuel return line back to the tank!

It works like this - fuel pump pumps fuel to the regulator ( the regulator has an inlet from the tank, and outlet to the carbie, a returnline to the tank and a vacuum/boost line from the manifold!)( this VL pump is used due to it being able to produce hi pressure and flow!)
When the vacuum/boost line is giving vacuum the regulator will send around 3-4 psi fuel pressure to the carbie ( pressure is adjustable!) and the extra fuel back to the tank through the return line!
When the vacuum/ boost line is giving a boost signal the regulator closes the return line enough to give the carbie more pressure than there is boost and still enough fuel flow!

The regulator is required because you need the high pressure fuel for boost and when there is no boost being produced the carbies needle and seat can't handle to much pressure!
Go the Datto had another setup which he has talked about you might like to go back and check it out!

*** One other modification that was done to the boosted carbies is we made a brass bush for around the fuel plunger to help seal boost and fuel loss from here under boost! ***

Also chokes are for pussies! lol! nah but really we took the chokes out as they looked to much like a restriction!
But even if you did use one I couldnt see it being any different to sealling around the accelerator or the fuel line!

regarding keeping boost at 10 psi for 1 month - I did get your point and this was my point obviously you didn't get it! ( no point doing it if you are not going to set it up properly! )

Regarding Standard Fuel pump - The standard fuel pump won't flow enough fuel that the engine will require! ( Boost means more air and this requires more fuel!)
Standard fuel pump has a pressure of about 2.5 psi if you run this or more boost the engine won't get any fuel as boost pressure will be pushing it back to the fuel tank!

Vacuum secondaries - a carbie with mechanical secondaries has onlt 1 vacuum line which goes to the distributor! if you have more than one vacuum line I am pretty sure you have vacuum secondaries!

Go the Datto said 110 & 200 - these are jet sizes like he said! ( a bigger number means a bigger hole!)

Go the Datto said a turbo from a Jap wreckers - A Jap wreckers is a place that sells second hand parts off of Japanese vehicles! so he is saying get a turbo off of any Japanese vehicle!

Diesel Turbo - I have told you what I think about the diesel turbo on a petrol engine!
If you want to use it! Do it! But dont expect miracles! maybe it will work and maybe it won't!

Hey Go the Datto is hard to not wind up the boost eh! lol!

And Dude I am just curious what did you do to seal around the accelerator cable and fuel line? ( was it just a rubber grommet? )
I have never built or seen anyone I know with a boxed ( I have seen your pics! )
but how did you bolt every thing in? does the bottom of the box unbolt like the top?
( I personnally wouldn't bother building a carbie setup again but if I did I would use a boxed setup as by the time it takes to seal the carbie ( wait for the fuel proof glue to go off ( 2 days) and make the hat for the top of the carbie ) I could have made a box for the whole carbie and saved myself alot of time and heart ache! ( ie, the glue not working or glue getting in the wrong part of the carbie!)

Just to add to what Dattodude has said I agree there is no use spending big dollars on an engine if you haven't had experiance with the setup you are going to use!

If you do plan to do this setup do it on a stock engine and work out all the little bugs on this engine before you spend the money!



Also all the drag cars you see don't think that their engines are their first attempts!
I always think it is morelikely that they have a new engine each time as they are always trying to go better and are experiancing engine failures!

First congadulations on never having a warped carbie! ( I would like to see it! even smaller than 1 mm is a lot of warpage on a carbie!)

Regarding cork gasket- I have never seen them used ( maybee they will last but probably they won't! )

Personally i wouldn't bother putting the carbie back together with standard gaskets, as even you said it - 10 psi only for the first month!
Trust me if you drive a boosted car you wont be able to stop yourself increasing the boost, even if you have strong will power!

Regarding diesel turbos - From what I know diesels and petrol engines have a big differents in exhaust gas flow! So unless you know turbos I would stick to petrol turbos for petrol cars!

Vacuum secondaries - Being yours is an 80 model chances are it has vacuum secondaries! ( not sure! )
If you have a vacuum line running to a solenoid to open the secondary throtle valve ( you have vaccum secondaries!)
If you have mechanical linkages to the secondary throtle valve! ( you have mechanical secondaries! )
( I dont know how else to explain them! )
Mechanical secondaries are required as if you apply boost to vacuum secondaries they will not open up and this will cause the engine to lean out!

Regarding the Turbo - I said a T3 off of a Nissan VG20 engine ( not sure which car this came in! )
This T3 has to wastegates! One works as normal and the other is an anti-lag wastegate! It works by causeing the exhaust gases ( at low boost ) to travel in a narrower path! this making higher velocity causing the turbine to spool up better at low RPM! then is opens up at a certain boost pressure to slow the turbo down at a higher RPM This making the car keep the same boost level!
( On the 1200's we left off this anti-lag wastegate so that the turbo would spool up more and increase boost!)
This is basically the same as modifiying a turbo to have a large compressor wheel and a smaller turbine wheel!

If you get a turbo off a bigger engine it means you will have to rev the car more to get enough gas flow from the exhaust to spool up the turbo! But at the same time this will mean the car will have a higher top end power as the Turbine housing will not be causing as much back prssure!

Regarding Radiator Intercooler- Like the other blokes have said the radiator is not designed to flow like an intercooler! ( it is designed to cool water and to cool it it would be better if the coolant was slowed down! This telling me that it couldnt flow air as good as an intercooler!)
Just look at the drag cars if a radiator was a good intercooler I am sure all these cars would use them!

Fisrtly is Bob so sexy he is distracting you from reading? lol!

Exhaust manifold - Some were standard exhuast manifold with a J pipe curling back up towards the front to mount the turbo and some were hand made extracter style manifolds!

The extracter style manifolds caused the turbo to spool up about 1000 rpm earlier!
But it was found that for street use the J pipe was better as the exhaust gases had a chance to cool down a bit before it got to the turbo! and this reduced the amount of heatsoak the turbine housing induced to the compresser housing! Over all reducing the compressed inlet charge dramatically!
( Not as important on a drag car as they only do 1/4 mile then shut the engine down! )
In theroy if a longer extracter manifold was made it would give the same benifits to a street car as a J pipe manifold, maybe even a little bit better!

Intake - A simplle hat was made for the carbie using about 2 inches of 3 inch exhaust pipe fitted with a top and bottom!
The bottom side having a hole the same size as the top of the carbie! and a rubber ring was attached to this to seal the boost! ( the rubber ring is the same as on the factory air cleaner or we were getting them off of Ford Laser air cleaners!)
The top side had a single hole drilled into it so that it mounted the same as a standard air cleaner!
From the side of this hat a piece of exhaust pipe the same size as the intercooler outlet was welded on and then the rest of the piping was connected to this!!

Hope this answers your questions mate!
Anymore feel free to ask!

I agree with Dattodude about the lancer (everything)!
When you check it out you will see why and you will wonder why Nissan never put them on the 1200's with disk brakes!

Regarding the Turbo size I would go for a turbo off an engine the same size or one that is a bit bigger!
And I agree that the smaller turbo will spool up quicker but this will reduce top end power because you are putting out more exhaust gas flow than the turbo can handle!
This will lead to excess heat from the turbo and eventually turbo failure!

Regarding how much pressure to safely run in a standard carbie with out modifications to the seals! I have found that anymore than 10 psi causes the top seal on the carbie to loose boost! ( Anyone who has ever rebuilt a datsun 1200 carbie will know that the top of the main body warps and has to be filed flat! This is because of the flimsy design around the srew points!)
Because of this when boost is applied the main body flexes around the float bowl and cause boost to be lost! this is right neartheneddle and seat the vacumn effect of the boost blowing out causes the incoming fuel to be sucked out and the float bowl to go empty! This causing the engine to lean out and problems start to arise!

One major thing to remember when turbo charging is to make sure that at any given time you have more fuel pressure than boost pressure! (other wise boost is blowing the fuel back down the fuel lines!)
So if you are running 10 psi boost you need over this in fuel pressure say around 15 psi fuel pressure!
But with a carbie the needle and seat can't hold15psi fuel pressure unless it is getting used up straight away! So you need to run a malpassi rising rate ( carbie not efi ) fuel pressure regulator!

( One other thing is if your carbie has vacumn secondaries you can't boost it as the carbie won't work properly! )

The best radiator I have seen is on my mates 120y with turbo a15 is a radiator off of a nissan forklift! ( not sure which forklift but where I used to work the forklift there was a nissan with an a14 and from what I could tell ( without pulling it out ) was that it was the sameone!

It measures 500mm x 500mm x 90mm!
It maybe overkill but this car never got hot!

He originally got it in a 1200 that he bought and the previous owner said he had to get the connections for the hoses moved!
fitting it was just a few simple brackets!

Since he never had problems with it he has put it in all of his cars scince!

If room is a problem this one is out of the question as 90mm is thick! but it did the job wonderful!