errr... I think 3 coupes, one 240z/260z, a 1600? and something else... the yellowish one?

Hey guys,

I've got a late model ute with a disc front end. Wasn't a problem getting matching replacement pads (QLD Friction materials P/L DB 39) but these have too much meat on them and I'm having problems even fitting them. They're too thick! (14mm) I can fit the inner pads (the one closest to the piston) but the outer 'static' side of the caliper has no chance. It's out by about 3mm at least.

Has anyone else come across this problem? Besides grinding/sanding the outer pad does anyone have any tips?

hah dd,

I see distributor and help and that's what I give everyone. Shameless self plug :P

Find TDC of cylinder #1 by looking at the the valves and the timing mark on your pulley.

With the dizzy out of the car put the dizzy cap on (with the rotor in there a well) and mark on the outside body of the dizzy (with a marker or something) the centre of the number 1 contact (where you're going to put the number 1 high tension lead.)

Take off the dizzy cap and turn the rotor so it's pointing at the mark before sliding the dizzy back into the engine block. When you get toward the bottom the rotor is going to want to slide anti-clock wise (in the direction of the firing order) so you want to turn the rotor clock wise about 20 degrees or so. So when the dizzy is fully installed it is as close as possible to the mark you made before.

Put in the adjusting screw but leave it a little loose to fine tune the timing later. Install your spark plugs high tension lead and everything else you've disconnected.

Start the car and set your timing. I use roughly 10 degrees base timing at about 800rpm. Then set your dwell after that.

PM sent mate.

Does anyone have a good condition speedo cable that would suit a ute.

I mean I dont mind the KMs not clocking up but not knowing exactly how fast I'm going makes me a little nervous.

Ohh, and if someone has the part number as well can they share it here please?

I pulled this from an old thread of mine... It'll help I'm sure.



I swapped an A12 dizzy into an A14 motor.

First swap over the adjusting plates on the underside of the dizzy. I found that my A14 dizzy's adjustment plate was a little different to the A12's.

Find TDC of cylinder #1 by looking at the the valves and the timing mark on your pulley.

With the dizzy out of the car put the dizzy cap on (with the rotor in there a well) and mark on the outside body of the dizzy (with a marker or something) the centre of the number 1 contact (where you're going to put the number 1 high tension lead.)

Take off the dizzy cap and turn the rotor so it's pointing at the mark before sliding the dizzy back into the engine block. When you get toward the bottom the rotor is going to want to slide anti-clock wise (in the direction of the firing order) so you want to turn the rotor clock wise about 20 degrees or so. So when the dizzy is fully installed it is as close as possible to the mark you made before.

Put in the adjusting screw but leave it a little loose to fine tune the timing later. Install your spark plugs high tension lead and everything else you've disconnected.

Start the car and set your timing. I use roughly 10 degrees base timing at about 800rpm. Then set your dwell after that.

Worked for me.

So I got my swapped dizzy to work... and for future reference this is how I did it.

I swapped an A12 dizzy into an A14 motor.

First swap over the adjusting plates on the underside of the dizzy. I found that my A14 dizzy's adjustment plate was a little different to the A12's.

Find TDC of cylinder #1 by looking at the the valves and the timing mark on your pulley.

With the dizzy out of the car put the dizzy cap on (with the rotor in there a well) and mark on the outside body of the dizzy (with a marker or something) the centre of the number 1 contact (where you're going to put the number 1 high tension lead.)

Take off the dizzy cap and turn the rotor so it's pointing at the mark before sliding the dizzy back into the engine block. When you get toward the bottom the rotor is going to want to slide anti-clock wise (in the direction of the firing order) so you want to turn the rotor clock wise about 20 degrees or so. So when the dizzy is fully installed it is as close as possible to the mark you made before.

Put in the adjusting screw but leave it a little loose to fine tune the timing later. Install your spark plugs high tension lead and everything else you've disconnected.

Start the car and set your timing. I use roughly 10 degrees base timing at about 800rpm. Then set your dwell after that.

Worked for me.

Will do mate, cheers.

Yeah... it was idling quite high... probably about 1500 rpm maybe more and I did try a reduce the idle speed by adjusting the carby idle but then timing was still way out.

The engine came out working and I had tuned it before and the timing mark on the pulley worked for me.

But now that I've swapped the dizzy, what would you suggest DD?