Best I can do for you is this.....



It's in mm

hope it helps.

A15
Stock head:
Langley Pistons:(20t over) (chopped 1.5mm off the top)
stock rods(another 1.5mm chopped here)
Stock Crank:
everything else in engine is stock.
===================================
Inlet manifold: Custom short tube (batch injection)
EFI: Gotech Std, Custom Dizzy.
Injectors: 295CC (4AGE), 4 of
==================================
Exhaust: Custom. 35mmID mildsteel TIG welded.
Turbo: Garrett T2 (0.43\0.45) 12blade shaft.
Boost plumbing: 50mm >> 63mm 308Stainless TIG welded.
Throttle Body: 51mm (Toyota whatever... :) )
Exhaust: 63mm 308SS tigwelded, one muffler.(Db @3500Rpm=78.2)
tested by some hyperactive COP the other day.
==================================
@14psi boost (we have some real crap fuel here)
HP =?????????
Torque=??????????
G-tech say it's 185Hp.... but yes I'd love to believe that....

mid engine rear wheel.... IE a front wheel gearbox\motor just moved backward.

Hi there...


I'm looking for an Autocad 3D-model of a SR20DET engine. Want to use it in a rear engined open wheeled car we are busy designing for production here in South Africa.

anyone here have a clue as to where one might be able to get such 3d-model.

littledarkone: in reply to your Q.

NBW (nickel Bronze Welded) Spacesframes are inherently very strong yes, and if cost is an issue in the manufacturing process then it is by far the best way. There is however one other welding process that, from a pure engineering point of view, is far superior to NBW. TIG welding. There, obviously cost is not an issue......

In short a list of welding techniques...from bad to best.
0: Manual Metal Arc (MMA), or ARC welding as we know it. This is BAD NEWS.
1: GAS welding (Oxi acetylene). Includes brazing.... better than the above, but that's about it.
2: MIG. Welding. Metal Inert Gas. very good and relatively cheap.
3:Nickel Bronze Welded: cheap and very easy to get a good repeatable weld. Bang for Buck, this one is top.
4:TIG (Tungsten inert Gas).... this is the way to go if cost is of no concern,

That sounds pretty normal.....

remember that vacuum advance only works when the throttle closes, or are partly closed.... IE under partial engine load....

this will advance the timing and give much smoother operation... than when you floor it, the timing will retard for full load operation.....then only the mechanical advance has an effect on the timing, so as the revs go up so will timing be added.

The front one goes to the rear.. I think.... I went disk on mine and had no need to change anything with regard to the master. not even had to add a booster. though I went way overboard on disk size, but hey... every inch counts.

I dono... But they are all the same.... this particular one is for a Mk1 Golf 1.8

you mean it's lineup?

in my case the sensor sits 180

that is a good idea, how do one post an article in there?


I do however want to use this thread so people can ask questions on things they are not clear on, maybe after a while, when all problems have been covered I can take all of it and include it in the Art.