You are most welcome

I'm going to put this in a thread here.... I found that the pics in the album just does not get displayed
chronologically, Just click on a picture to go to the explanation of what is going on



































And there we go, one nice little A14\A15 dizzy Hallified and ready for some accurate rapid firing.

All rights reserved,
All trademarks belong to their owners,
A Golf Dizzy was shamelessly gutted in the worst possible and inhumane way thinkable, power tools where used, even where it was not really necessary..
You do this mod at your own risk!!!!!!!!!!!
If your engine suddenly runs backward, don't blame me....

Enjoy

I'm running mine Stock as the get born..... though I am tempted to clean out the combustion chambers a bit.... they have some rather nasty sharp edges, and that is bad news for boosting anything approaching a bar.

I went all 4 disks on my Daihatsu, but my problem was I did this way back in 1992\93
and back then the availability of these nice calipers that had HB. built in just was not there, they also did not make them for vented disks.... so I added another normal caliper on each side, and just ran them on there own master that is worked by the handbrake lever. really nice for drifting and loosing control on any dry road,


there was a guy here that used a clutch master inline with the hydraulic line that went to his back disks... This setup seem to be much better than the dual caliper way.... Apparently he just made an adapter and fitted it to where the reservoir of the clutch master normally went. such that the hydraulic feed from the front (brake master) actually could pass right through this Clutch Master, when it's not being used,IE. plunger all the way to the front. Now when you need handbrake, the plunger will seal of the feed from the front, and apply pressure only to the rear.

Indeed a very clever rig this guy came up with.

if you start the engine up from cold and you have the rad-cap removed, can you see that the water is actually moving, sirculating... or does it apear stagnant in the radiator....

Well Hall effect is good enough for 11K Rpm Rotary engines.... so it is as good as it gets.... I'm not sure but I think Hall is an X F1 technology that worked it's way down to us mortals here below.... heck even the space shuttle has Hall effect in its engines.... NOT ...

I think it is about the same as magnetic but way better than optical.... optical pickups has a habbit of getting dirty, which is not good for obvious reasons.

The module itself is attached to a backing plate, that gets pulled back and forth by the vacuum advance diaphragm..... I used it just like that. it had a couple of holes in it of which one matched one of the holes in the a14 dizzy, where the points normally gets bolted down through. so I just marked the other hole in the backing plate, making sure its nice and centered.
My A14 dizzy is locked, no mechanical advance or nothing... the ECU does that...

the Golf's upper shaft has 2 pins underneath, where the springs get hooked up, I just made them fit in between the a14's weights, and when I tighten it from the top, I just added a little washer, the make sure the shaft gets tightened, so it's locked with the bottom shaft.

had to mod the part where the rotor goes... the Golf's rotor did not have the reach.... and the shaft needs a flat for the a14's rotor, but thats minor and easyly done with a file...a metal file :) and hacksaw.


Damn I should have taken pictures as I went along, never even thought of that until I was done, when I took that picture.... only took me about an hour to do it...

I had the same dilemma.... was stuck with a points dizzy, and nobody
that could tell me what will fit into that. So I went forth and jumped right in at the deep side....

you get a VW-Golf-1 distributor, they are cheap.
What you need from it is the hall sender, the top shaft that fits into the weights at the bottom
and the little drum with the slots in it.

the conversion is rather straight forward, really nothing to it.

an example of how I made mine......





good old steam bends

I will suggest, have a look at the car itself... if the body itself is in a good condition, then take it, regardless of what the machanical issues are.... those can easily be taken care of....ether by replacing the diff, or whatever, completely, as you said... or just the parts... hell even a complete engine swop will come out less than having to do some major body\rust repairs..

m2c
if the body is all rusted or smashed up, then it's more of an problem to get the car respectable again...